1. Under the Clock Tower
Filmed in Porthleven earlier this year, this gets to the heart of surfing the UK winter. We were there, for half term week, but surfed other local spots. When Leven is on, it’s for the elite. Best not to get in their way ;)
For a fuller picture of Cornish surfing, check out the film Land of Saints.
2. Dinner for deux
Every year me and some mates make a pact to surf somewhere new. Every year – pretty much – we end up going back to Hossegor, France. Usually for the Quik pro comp. This vid shows the French trip experience (in quite an arty way).
3. The Cribbar
In Kook, the kids surf a big wave spot, an off-shore reef called the Devil’s Horns. That’s not a real place, but the UK does have legendary spots that need a hefty swell to kick off:
4. Nazare
If you talk about big/tow-in wave surfing these days, you’re talking about Nazare, Portugal, not just the US/Hawaiian breaks. This is pioneer Garrett McNamara, taking it on. Brit Andrew Cotton also regularly has a go. Nutters.
5. Sam Bleakley
I and my family have watched this guy surf many times over the years at our favourite surf/holiday beach, amazed by the displays of cross step and nose riding. On a trip to France, I saw a pic of him in a bar. “I know that guy!” I squealed, pointing. “Yes, Chris,” my mate said, patiently. “That’s Sam Bleakley. He’s been UK and European longboard champ a bunch of times.” Here he is on a perfect winter’s day.
6. Pipe, Oahu
Go-pro cameras have revolutionized how surf is filmed. Stick one on a drone and you go to another level.
7. Kelly Slater
You can’t do top 10 anything surf-wise and not include Kelly Slater. It’s the law. 11 times world champ, in his forties, and still on the front edge. Here he is, winning the Quikpro, France 2012.
We were there for the week. I came back to the UK a day early to start the Bath Spa MA in writing for young people, so missed the final. I was gutted at the time, but now I think it was a smart move.
8. Rhthym: The sound of change experience
I love this. The boards, the van. It’s very retro, but about surf culture now, too.
9. The plastic project
UK surf photographer Tim Nunn takes stunning photos of waves and the folk that ride them. More recently, he’s launched The Plastic Project to raise awareness of the sheer volume of plastic in the sea. Sorry to get preachy, but if you surf, at all, you kind of owe it to yourself and the ocean to give a s***t and do something. Recycle, re-use – join Surfers Against Sewage. Just something! Check out their video here.
10. Boiler boys
Taghazout, Morocco is another place we keep returning to. There’s a ton of great breaks there. Boilers is a regional classic. We went there one day when it was hee-yooge. I’m a longboarder now and it was too big for me, but my mates had a go. I watched them, and the whole line-up, get hammered. Broken leashes, snapped boards, heavy pastings. The works. From the safety of dry land, it was hilarious. Of course, they also got the waves of their lives. And will they ever shut up about it? No.
This is a great film, by Marine Layer Productions, showing Boilers in its prime.
That’s my top 10. I’ve just realised that three of the above feature Dane Reynolds. Not deliberate, but not a coincidence either. He’s that good.
