Although the geysers at Rotorua and lunar landscape of Tongariro tempt many visitors inland, New Zealand’s North Island is a rewarding destination for beach lovers, too. As with the South Island, the North has many brooding vistas where wild seas meet rocky shores, but it is also home to brilliant blue water and gorgeous stretches of white sand.
The most enticing beaches are in three distinct areas. There’s the sub-tropical Bay of Islands, in the far north, with its abundant marine life and scenic ferry trips; the sun-drenched Coromandel peninsula, east of Auckland; and Hawke’s Bay in the south-east, which is considerably more rugged. Visitor numbers in all three regions drop dramatically outside of the main holiday months of December and January, bringing cheaper rates and plenty of opportunities for seclusion.
BAY OF ISLANDS
Duke of Marlborough, Russell
If there’s such a thing as a tourist hotspot in New Zealand, it’s the Bay of Islands – but those accustomed to holidaying in the Mediterranean or along Australia’s east coast will still find the place comparatively quiet. It’s worth spending a few days or more in the area to take in the beaches, diverse marine life (particularly the dolphins) and the titular islands. The 25-room Duke of Marlborough, in the historic port town of Russell, holds New Zealand’s oldest liquor licence, and although the building has burned down twice since 1827, it still boasts plenty of period detail (including some stunning 20th-century furniture). In the 1930s extension at the rear, you’ll find inexpensive rooms with bright white decor, or you can splash out for a larger room with a balcony overlooking the promenade and the bay. Local craft beer rules in the restaurant, and the attractive Long Beach is a few minutes’ walk away.
• Doubles from NZ$125 (£62) room only, +64 9 403 7829, theduke.co.nz
Arcadia Lodge, Russell
Breakfast on the balcony at Arcadia Lodge is almost too good – by the time you’ve gorged yourself on the home-made muesli, rich organic yoghurt and local fruit, then sampled the ever-changing cooked special, you may find yourself ready for a nap. Hosts Brad and David are some of the friendliest you’ll find in Russell, and the pride they take in maintaining the lodge’s three nautically themed suites is evident: there’s not a scuffed edge to be seen. Small touches, like the jar of ginger cookies in the kitchen and the books on New Zealand flora, fauna and history, give the place a genuinely homely feel.
• Doubles from NZ$215 (£100) B&B, +64 9 403 7756, arcadialodge.co.nz
Allegra House, Paihia
Paihia can’t match Russell for colonial history, but it has a decent beach and its wharf is the departure point for many Bay of Islands day cruises. If you base yourself here, opt for a property on the hillside, so you can watch the sun set over the water. Allegra House, run by enthusiastic European expats Heinz and Brita Marti, looks an unassuming place from the street, but each of its three bed-and-breakfast rooms boasts a balcony with postcard views of the bay. The property’s native garden is well tended, and the beach is a quick stroll away.
• Doubles from NZ$190 (£88) B&B, +64 9 402 7932, allegra.co.nz
Beachside Holiday Park, Paihia
This campground on the outskirts of Paihia looks out over its own small bay, with a pebbly beach that’s ideal for a tranquil stroll. There’s dense bushland behind the site and plenty of birdlife. Recently upgraded bathrooms, a smart communal cooking area (with a shared fridge) and reliably strong wifi give the place an edge over some of the run-down campsites in the area. There’s even a herb garden that guests are welcome to raid before cooking their meals. The sites are small, and not all offer water views, but pricing – particularly for en-suite cabins – is competitive.
• Camp pitches and powered sites from NZ$20 (£9), four-person cabins with kitchens and en suites from NZ$85 (£39), +64 9 402 7678, beachsideholiday.co.nz
AUCKLAND
Bethells Beach Cottages
Auckland’s beaches are underwhelming, but drive out of the city and you’ll find good strips of sand that feel far more remote than they really are. Bethells Beach is one such spot; it’s fringed by dramatic hills and home to dark sand and crashing waves. Although the place is only an hour away, many Aucklanders have yet to discover it, which means you’ve a good chance of securing one of the three suites at Bethells Beach Cottages. It’s an unpretentious property run by fifth-generation landowner Trude Bethell and her husband. There are generous hampers of local produce for breakfast, and compact but functional kitchens in each suite for guests to cook other meals.
• Doubles from NZ$190 (£88) room only (minimum two-night stay), +64 9 810 9581, bethellsbeach.com
HAWKE’S BAY
The Crown Hotel, Napier
It’s easy to fill a few days in the Hawke’s Bay region: there are vineyards to explore, wide beaches, and lush, hilly hiking terrain. The centrepiece of the area is Napier, a seaside town that was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and then rebuilt in art deco style. The Crown is great value for independent travellers – undercover parking is free, as are the DIY laundry facilities, and the 42 guest rooms are well maintained; request one with a water view.
• Doubles from NZ$175 (£82) room only, +64 6 833 8300, thecrownnapier.co.nz
Art Deco Masonic Hotel, Napier
This is the Napier hotel to book if you’re after a full art deco experience – the exterior is one of the finest in town, and the staff deliver courteous, old-fashioned service. The 42 guest rooms have recently been refurbished, and boast bright carpets and cheerful patterned wallpaper (20 have access to a balcony). Of the property’s two bar-restaurants, Emporium is the more atmospheric, and popular with locals too. The juicy, local, braised lamb is deservedly popular.
• Doubles from NZ$129 (£60) room only, +64 6 835 8689, masonic.co.nz
Waipatiki Beach Holiday Park
Unlike some of the family-focused holiday parks around the North Island, this spot, about 30 minutes’ drive north of Napier, has a peaceful, cut-off vibe. The campsites and cabins are generously spread out, and there’s a no-noise policy after 10pm which is gently enforced by the staff. The water off the compact beach can get rough, but lifeguards patrol during peak times, and there’s a shallow stream for young children to splash about in. Hosts Shona and Paul are brimming with suggestions for local day trips, though city slickers may find the unreliable Wi-Fi (which must be paid for) frustrating.
• Camp pitches from NZ$15 (£7) per adult and NZ$6 (£3) per child; cabins for two with shared facilities from NZ$40 (£19), cabins for two with kitchens and en suites from NZ$85 (£40), +64 6 836 6075, waipatikibeach.co.nz
COROMANDEL PENINSULA
Otama Beach Hideaway
The north-facing, rainforest-clad Coromandel peninsula (known as “the Coromandel”) is popular with Aucklanders during the Christmas break, but feels pleasantly sleepy at other times of the year. The white-sand beaches are some of the most impressive in New Zealand, and several still feel undiscovered. Sheltered by the coastal bushland and with no near-neighbours, Otama Beach Hideaway is a single studio apartment with impressive views of Mercury Bay islands from the timber deck. This is real “get away from it all” accommodation: there’s no phone reception and the nearest proper shops are a 20-minute drive away. You receive a breakfast hamper upon arrival but the rest is up to you (there’s a kitchenette and an outdoor grill for your daily catch).
• Double from NZ$180 (£84) B&B, +64 7 866 0177, otamabeach-hideaway.co.nz
Hahei Holiday Resort
This family-centric campsite feels crowded when full, but visit outside the December/January peak season (particularly in February and March, when the water is warmest) and you can enjoy a summer-holiday experience without too much bustle. Unlike many Kiwi beaches, Hahei is calm and clear, making it an excellent spot for kids to splash around and for adults to kayak. The campground changed hands last year, and the new owners have added a range of welcome new features, from spade-hire for children who want to build sandcastles to a pop-up pizzeria that operates during the warmer months. Most impressive? The on-site shop now serves Auckland-quality espresso.
• Camp pitches from NZ$42 (£19), double cabins with kitchen and en suite from NZ$90 (£42), +64 7 866 3889, haheiholidays.co.nz
