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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Josh Barrie

Too Many Critics: Food writers face off at the Cinnamon Club in aid of Action Against Hunger

One of London’s most cherished culinary fundraising events will return this year after a prolonged hiatus.

Too Many Critics sees food writers and industry leaders prepare a four-course dinner in aid of Action Against Hunger, which works to help malnourished children around the world. The writers will be cooking for chefs, in a reversal of the usual order.

Hosted at Westminster restaurant The Cinnamon Club, the event, on 4 June, will include an Indian feast dreamt up by chef patron Vivek Singh.

Singh will be on hand to guide the Mail’s Tom Parker Bowles, food writer Rose Prince, CODE Hospitality founder Adam Hyman, and the Standard’s own David Ellis, each of whom will be put in charge of a course.

The menu will include watermelon chaat, copra patties, halibut paturi, and more, while the critics will also do battle in the ‘Big Bread Fight’, where diners will decide who has come up with the best tandoori bread toppings.

Leading proceedings will be an as yet unnamed celebrity host, while star chefs such as Michelin-starred Nieves Barragán (of Sabor) and Great British Menu 2017 winner Pip Lacey (of Hicce) will decide who has done the best job in the kitchen.

There will also be a silent and live auction, with all the proceeds funding Action Against Hunger’s lifesaving work.

Action Against Hunger said that for many, even the most basic nutritious food is further out of reach than ever before, but said such hunger is “predictable, preventable and treatable.”

In 2021, the charity supported nearly 25 million people across 51 countries, training parents and healthcare workers to spot the first signs of malnutrition, delivering care to people in need, and researching the scalability and sustainability of food programmes.

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