Visit the oldest branch of the Niki no Kashi candy shops in Ueno, Tokyo, and you're in for a real treat. A treat for the eyes as well as the taste buds, as a large red sign above the entrance beckons, the shop's name written in white kanji characters. Inside, the narrow aisles are packed with a colorful, and seemingly endless, array of sweets and snacks.
Chocolates, candies, cookies and nuts are everywhere -- it's easy to believe branch manager Yasunori Nakagawa when he says the store is filled with about 3,000 to 4,000 different treats, both Japanese and foreign. Add in the other two branches in Ueno, and the number swells to a whopping 5,000.
In business in Ueno since 1947 and part of the Ameyoko shopping area since 1951, Niki no Kashi's original branch was awarded the Grand Prize and the top prize in the Shopping (Retail Facilities) category at the Live Japan Awards this April. The Japan News recently visited the shop and spoke to Nakagawa about its growing popularity among foreign visitors.
From matcha to squid
Overseas customers started to increase three to four years ago, according to Nakagawa, 49. "Matcha- and wasabi-type candies became popular, and the early buyers apparently gave them to people as souvenirs," he said. "Foreign visitors show us pictures they took of candies they were given, and ask if we have them."
All told, Taiwan, Thailand and China account for 70 to 80 percent of Niki no Kashi's foreign customers, with visitors from Taiwan making up the largest group. Many buy in significant amounts -- about 100 people a day reportedly buy their confectionaries tax-free, which requires a total purchase of at least 5,000 yen. Prices at the store for individual items range from just 10 yen to about 2,600, yen with much of the lineup costing about 100 yen each.
The biggest purchases have reached as high as nearly 100,000 yen worth of treats. "There are businesspeople who buy for their own operations, too," Nakagawa said.
Macha and wasabi remain strong sellers, but with more Japanese confections available in China and Taiwan these days, customers from those countries now buy a variety of things, including senbei rice crackers and gummies.
"They also buy unusual flavors, squid and such. Anything goes, these days," Nakagawa said.
Customers looking for particular products may need to change tack upon actually browsing the shelves -- Niki no Kashi's stock is not static. According to Nakagawa, about 100 to 200 new products go on the shelves each month. This year's Halloween lineup had already been chosen when we spoke, and nearly all those for Christmas.
"Sometimes people show us products from the internet, and ask if we have them," he said. "Things tend to stay on the internet for a long time, so it's often something we don't have anymore. Like winter items right now, or something from a year ago."
According to staffer Satomi Shimizu, 58, customers often ask her what's popular, while some bring wrappers from the confectionaries they're seeking.
Please pay before eating!
The internet and social media are key drivers of the store's reputation and popularity these days. Niki no Kashi previously distributed pamphlets at local hotels where foreigners stayed, but that's on hiatus now.
Buying habits tend to differ among visitors from different regions, Nakagawa said: While Japanese customers tend to be older, for example, foreign customers often come with children. And while people from Europe and the United States tend to want something to munch on right then, he added, customers from Asia are generally looking for both snacks and souvenirs.
Pei Ying, a 34-year-old woman visiting from Taiwan, had learned about the shop from a blog and planned to get treats for the children of family and friends.
She wasn't looking for specific items. "If it looks so cute, I will buy it," Pei said.
The Antonio family visiting from Manila, who asked to be identified just by their last name, were buying both for others and themselves. Like Pei, they'd found Niki no Kashi through the internet, while looking on Facebook for suggested places to visit.
Asked if they had come seeking anything in particular, they first named KitKats. "They have really unique flavors; we haven't seen these yet," said one of the young women, referring to cookie and fruit-flavored varieties. "We've only found them here."
Cultural differences have also led to some awkward occurrences. According to Shimizu, at least once a month someone starts eating before they've paid for their sweets. "Apparently that's OK in some countries," she said.
"Or some people don't understand the tax-free system, and open up the bag," Shimizu said. Customers from other nations, be warned: No matter how much you might want a nibble right now, you have to leave consumable tax-free items in their special bag until you leave Japan.
Niki no Kashi has 12 locations throughout the nation, plus a store in Bangkok that opened late last year. More information can be found on their website at www.nikinokashi.co.jp.
-- Live Japan Awards
Awarded to tourist spots, including shops and restaurants, that are accessed in huge numbers on the website "Live Japan Perfect Guide Tokyo." Operated by Gurunavi, Inc. and 45 other entities, the website provides travel information about facilities and services including restaurants and public transportation.
The original outlet of Niki no Kashi was the most popular spot on the Live Japan site from April 2018 to March 2019, for which it was awarded the 2019 Grand Prize and the top prize in the Shopping (Retail Facilities) category.
According to an official of Gurunavi, Niki no Kashi updates information every day about sweets that are popular among inbound tourists. According to the official, niche shops and locations are favored, as people want to visit places suited to their individual interests.
Visit the Live Japan website at https://livejapan.com.
Read more from The Japan News at https://japannews.yomiuri.co.jp/
