Move over balsamic, there are other vinegars on the block: wine vinegars. Wine vinegars are used in cooking and baking, in salad dressings and marinades, and can transform milk into a buttermilk substitute. (And while you are in the kitchen, mix some with salt and clean your copper or your chrome water faucet.)
Wine vinegars (red, white, Champagne, sherry) are my first choice for vinaigrettes and are delicious when added to braised dishes (like my favorite chicken with vinegar _ one of the great poultry dishes from the area around Lyons, France). I also add it to sauces and marinades for chicken, beef and lamb.
Try a splash over root vegetables before roasting, along with olive oil and seasoning, to give them an extra zing.
A good wine vinegar can elevate every dish it touches. By good, I mean made according to the traditional method. These vinegars cost a bit more than the usual supermarket variety, but I think they are worth it.
Wine vinegar starts with wine that is allowed to ferment in wooden barrels, sometimes for a few years and sometimes longer in order for the taste to become more complex. The flavor of the vinegar mellows the longer it is allowed to age before bottling.
Red wine vinegar is best used with heartier flavors and foods, like beef, pork and vegetables. White wine vinegar is softer than red wine vinegar but can be used interchangeably in recipes, depending on the flavor you desire or in recipes where you don't want to change the color.
Champagne vinegar has a lighter, fresher taste than other wine vinegars and is best for dressing lighter foods like pale greens, chicken, and fish.
Sherry vinegar is made from sherry wine, which is produced in the Jerez region in southwestern Spain. It's aged for at least six months in oak barrels before being bottled and has one of the most complex flavors of all the wine vinegars. Its slightly sweet sharp taste works well in a vinaigrette as well as for cooking.
All vinegars should be stored tightly closed in a cool, dark place. They will last for about a year after opening; after that time, the flavors will diminish.
