Good fresh feta, the classic Greek cheese, should be moist and creamy when young. As it ages it becomes sharper and more complex with a clean, fresh, mouthwateringly tangy, salty flavor.
Feta has been around for centuries, and there is hardly a Greek meal that does not incorporate feta cheese in some manner _ salads, stuffed into pies or crumbled on stews. It adds piquant flavor and texture to sweet and savory foods alike.
Many other countries produce forms of feta cheese, including Australia, France, Bulgaria, Denmark, Germany and, of course, the United States. By Greek law, feta must contain a minimum of 70 percent sheep's milk; the rest is goat's milk. A European Economic Community ruling in 2001 mandates that no member nation can sell white brine cheese _ inside the European Community or anywhere else _ as "feta."
Names like "white cheese" or "white brine cheese" are suggested alternatives. I particularly like French-style feta because it is creamier and milder than those imported from countries other than Greece. The Greek word feta means "slice" _ the form in which the cheese is customarily served. It is normally sold in square cakes with no rind. I try to buy feta from a store that keeps it in its brine, which helps to preserve it. Mediterranean markets such as Daily Bread in Miami are good sources of brined feta.
After purchase, I keep it in the refrigerator, submerged in the brine. I often adjust the brine to fine-tune the flavor of the cheese _ if it's very salty I store it in plain water to temper the salinity; if it's very sharp I add a little milk. Kept refrigerated and stored properly, feta cheese will last up to three months.
Feta is best served at room temperature. A drizzle of honey and a short time in a 450-degree oven transform a standard block of crumbly feta into a surprisingly succulent, creamy spread for pita and vegetables. Served with a chunk of crusty bread and a glass of chilled white wine, this is the perfect warm weather appetizer.
In general, feta cheese and goat cheese can be used interchangeably, such as when pairing with beets or roasted peppers, or for topping a pizza or crumbling into salads.
