Rising 2,285m above mean sea level, Doi Pha Hom Pok of Chiang Mai's Fang district ranks as Thailand's second-highest summit. On my recent visit to the mountaintop -- I had not returned to Doi Pha Hom Pok since I first climbed it 25 years ago -- I wanted to make the most of the trip, so I added biking as part of it.
This year my friends and I chose Doi Pha Hom Pok as the destination of our annual cool-season mountain holiday. It started three years ago when we visited Doi Kham Fah, also in Chiang Mai, but in Chiang Dao district. From Doi Kham Fah, Doi Luang Chiang Dao, the country's third tallest mountain, was dominating the view, so we decided that the following year we would go stand there on its jagged top. Early last year, from the highest point of Doi Luang, we spotted Doi Pha Hom Pok in the distance. Hence, this year's trip.
As on Doi Luang, the road on Doi Pha Hom Pok doesn't go all the way to the summit; however, the hike here is shorter. It normally takes only two hours, compared with five or six at Doi Luang.
From Chiang Mai railway station, our group of five went to Fang on a hired van which we had booked weeks earlier. Tong, the van owner and driver, is also a mountain biker. He was kind enough to bring his full-suspension rig for me to use. My plan was to ride down the mountain on the last day. With all the tents and camping gear I was carrying, it would be too troublesome to also lug along my own bike from Bangkok.
In Fang, after we reported our arrival at Mae Fang National Park which oversees Doi Pha Hom Pok, we changed the vehicle from Tong's van to a local 4x4 pickup, which would take us to Kew Lom camping ground on the mountain. The park doesn't allow normal vehicles to use the access road because many parts of it are in bad condition. And this is exactly the reason I asked Tong to bring me a mountain bike. I was grinning as we loaded the bike up the truck.
It was about 5pm when we finally arrived at the camping ground. By the time we had all the tents set up and dinner ready, the sky was already dark and the wind was chilly. We slept early because the next morning our trek would begin at 4am. I woke up at 3am to answer nature's call and didn't go back to sleep. Literally, the entire sky was full of stars. It had been a long while since the last time I got to enjoy such a sight, and I didn't mind losing some sleep for it.
At 4am sharp, all hikers -- there were just 30-something altogether -- were summoned. Each group was accompanied by a local guide to make sure nobody got lost or fell off the mountain. Armed with a torch and water, we were all set to trek in the dark.
To make a long story short, we finally made it to the mountaintop. I still could find traces of the old military bunkers where I spent a night the first time I came here. These days, camping on the summit is not permitted. The view was as breathtaking as before. From up there, we could see not just the sunrise but numerous other mountains in surrounding areas, including Doi Luang Chiang Dao. As the Sun became stronger, we left the peak and hiked back down to the camping area.
After packing, everybody except me hopped on the pickup to get down the mountain. Tong lent me a good bike and the ride was as fun as expected. For those who have enough time and climbing power, I recommend riding both up and down. Your trip to Doi Pha Hom Pok will be one of those you'll never forget.
I rejoined the others at the first village at the foot of the mountain. Then we all went to the national park headquarters for something we badly needed: a soothing soak in the park's famous hot springs.
Well, see you here again soon. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, please feel free to send an email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to the Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is the Bangkok Post's travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
GPS co-ordinates (Kew Lom camping ground): 20°02'43.61" N 99°08'43.31" E
Trail condition: Partly paved mountain road.
Distance: About 15.5km from Huai Bon checkpoint at the foot of the mountain to Kew Lom camping site. If that's not enough, you can start from the park's headquarters and add at least 8.5km.
Getting there: Mae Fang National Park is a short drive from the town of Fang, which is about 150km north of Chiang Mai city.
Parking: If you bring a 4x4 vehicle, you can drive all the way to Kew Lom. If not, you can leave the car at the park's headquarters.
Food & drinks: Instant noodles and coffee may be available at the camping area, but not every day. Make sure you bring enough for every meal while you are on the mountain.
What your family can enjoy while waiting: They should at least join you in the hike to the summit. Otherwise, there's no point in them coming.
Accommodation: Camping at Kew Lom is recommended because from there you can get to the mountaintop in time for the sunrise. The park offers rental tents if you don't have your own.
