Jan. 07--Kiss your sweet pinks goodbye. Tough, rebellious and '90s-inspired beauty looks include the I-dare-you-to-say-something-to-me electric purple lips a la Rihanna along with moody-broody Goth brown lipstick launched into the social media stratosphere by Kylie Jenner with her 40 million-plus Instagram followers.
The looks are in keeping with what we've seen in fashion, worn by celebrities on red carpets and by fashionistas on the streets: gowns embellished with metallic hardware including chain-link straps, flower-print baby doll dresses, chokers, blue jean jackets and Dr. Martens.
Don't worry, there's still enough room for smoky eyes and beautiful, bronzy eye shadows, but if you want to make a stronger statement, you'll be on-trend now too. "I feel like it's an '80s punk mashup with the '90s because in the '80s you had all of those really hard, graphic lines and then in the '90s it was moving toward natural but grungy natural that really wasn't natural at all when I look back at it," says makeup artist Pati Dubroff.
Here are some looks to try, along with Dubroff's tips and some product choices.
Simply tough: Graphic eyeliner
Anna Sui, DKNY, Fendi, Oscar de la Renta, Versace -- these are just a few designers who recently sent graphic eyeliner looks marching down their fall runways.
Dubroff's advice? Keep it simple. "If too many other colors or shadows are on the eye, you don't get the power of the graphic eye," she says. "You want to make a graphic, edgy statement. What you see in magazines is really hard to do. It's been retouched to make it look sharp and symmetrical."
To keep the black line on your upper lash line looking graphic, Dubroff recommends drawing straighter lines than a cat-eye and finishing with squared-off edges. A liquid liner gives the sharpest line but using cream liner may be easier. "Find a brush to use with it that has the right kind of tip for you," says Dubroff. "Sometimes a brush with a flat, straight edge can be better for a look than a pointy brush."
Kat Von D Five Fearless Years Limited Edition Tattoo Liner ($24, www.sephora.com)
Lancome Artliner Precision Point Eyeliner in Noir ($30.50, www.lancome-usa.com)
Guerlain Liquid Eyeliner in Noir ($40, www.saksfifthavenue.com)
Brown, berry, black and purple lip color
"When you Google "90s makeup' you get pictures of Cindy (Crawford), Drew (Barrymore) and Gwen (Stefani) but then you also get all of these Kylie Jenner pictures," says Dubroff, adding that deep berry is the easiest color of the bunch to wear. "Honestly, it's pretty tricky to make brown lipstick look flattering. It's aging on a 17-year-old and it's especially aging for anyone who's over 17."
Bear in mind that we live in an era when people apply their makeup more for Instagram than for interacting in the real world, "and they're filtering and lighting it ... it's hard to step out into daylight with those faces. ... Brown lip color can be beautiful but it has to be a sheer layer, not thick," says Dubroff. For the real world, she recommends blotting the color after applying it and opting for a satin-finish formula rather than anything too glossy or matte.
Giorgio Armani Rouge Ecstasy in Caffe ($36, www.giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com)
MAC Sheen Supreme Lipstick in Good to Be Bad ($20, www.bloomingdales.com)
Tom Ford Beauty Lip Color in Dark and Stormy ($52, www.tomford.com)
If Purple Haze Lip Color by Free Spirits, made popular by Rihanna, is sold out ($25, www.thefashionjunkee.com), try Too Faced Melted Liquified Long Wear Lipstick in Melted Violet ($21, www.toofaced.com)
Nars Killer Shine Lip Gloss in Provoke ($28, www.narscosmetics.com)
Frosted and metallic shine
To make frosted lips modern, Dubroff suggests wearing a natural lip color accented with a bit of frost in the center of the lip. "Frosted tones across the entire lip don't give the lip any tone or structure because it's all shimmering and jumping out at you," she says.
Tom Ford Beauty Lip Color in Guilty Pleasure ($52, www.shop.nordstrom.com)
Sephora Collection Colorful 5 Eyeshadow Palette Color No. 08 Sunrise to Sunset Bronze ($25, www.sephora.com)
