Cave de Turckheim Gewürztraminer, Alsace, France 2014 (£9.99, Waitrose)I eat a lot of southeast Asian food – or rather, I make a lot of weeknight stir-fries in a notionally southeast Asian style. And, according to long- established lore, the wine to drink with my concoctions, with their random applications of ginger, chilli and coriander, are those made from gewürztraminer – and not only because the variety’s name incorporates the German for “spiced” (“gewürz”). Something about the sensual muskiness, uninhibited rose-petal and lychee aromas in a wine such as Cave de Turckheim’s example from Alsace suits the aromatic riot of Asian-inspired cuisine, while the touch of sugar cushions the heat of the gingery spice.
Elena Walch Gewürztraminer, Alto-Adige, Italy 2014 (£15.75, Bottle Apostle) Much as gewürztraminer’s qualities can make it ideal for aromatic food, however, it seems a shame that one of the world’s most distinctive grape varieties should be pigeonholed as the vinous alternative to Singha at the local Thai. Really great Alsace gewürztraminer, such as those made by Zind Humbrecht in vineyards like Hengst (the 2013 is available at Uncorked, £39.95), have a depth and complexity that is unique in the wine world. It’s better consumed on its own or with a slab of oozing Munster cheese. And Elena Walch’s racier take from the Alpine north of Italy, which has notes of citrus to go with its floral character, would fit just fine with fish or white meats, with or without Asian spice.
Paul Cluver Gewürztraminer 2014 (£11.35, Halifax Wine Company; Tanners Wines; Booths) Most of my favourite gewürztraminers come from the Germanic-influenced parts of Europe. Too many producers in the New World fall into one of two extremes: the wines are either excessively perfumed, fat and flat, or they’re thin and weedy, with none of the floral charm that makes the variety so distinctive. Just occasionally I come across producers that seem to have got the hang of it and it’s usually those who have an equal affinity with riesling. Paul Cluver, a family firm based in Elgin, South Africa, is one such. Their latest vintage is nicely poised between spice, fat, perfume and freshness.
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