Food, for me, is largely about the giving and receiving of pleasure, but we are, rightly, increasingly reminded that its fundamental role is to sustain us. As we learn about the damage ultra-processed foods wreak on our health (and the planet’s), we are also learning about “beneficial” foods to eat. And so to fermentation, an ancient preservation method that happens to be brilliant at stimulating and feeding our good gut bacteria. Chocolate, cheese, wine, kimchi, vinegars, coffee … it’s a happy coincidence, then, that their slowly developed flavours taste quite so good.
Kimchi and silken tofu noodles with roast brussels sprouts
The soy-soaked sprouts give a delicious meatiness to the light, silken tofu, which in turn melts in the mouth.
Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4
3 tbsp rapeseed oil
500g brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed, halved
1 thumb ginger (about 20g), peeled and roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1½ tbsp miso
150g kimchi
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp sherry vinegar
170g soba noodles
1 bunch spring onions, finely chopped
2-3 tbsp mirin
290g silken tofu, drained and cubed
Chilli oil, to serve
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Put half the oil in an ovenproof dish, set it over a medium-high heat and fry the sprouts for a minute or two. Transfer to the oven and roast for about 15 minutes, until just tender.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, blitz the ginger, garlic, miso, kimchi, soy and vinegar to a rough puree. Cook the noodles as per the packet instructions, then rinse under cold water for a minute.
Heat the rest of the oil in a wok and stir-fry the kimchi paste for a few minutes. Add the spring onions, reserving a few tablespoons for serving, stir-fry for a minute, then toss in the sprouts and pour in 600ml boiling water. Bring to a simmer, then stir in the noodles and mirin.
Divide between four bowls and top with the tofu, sprinkle over the remaining spring onions and a drizzle of chilli oil, and serve.
And for the rest of the week …
Buy more tofu than you need; it is glorious topped with fried mushrooms and spring onions, soy and chillies for a light snack. Leftover kimchi is good in most things, and particularly in quesadillas or on breakfast eggs.
