Quince, with its golden skin and round shape, is misleading. Tough and inedible raw, it turns soft and luscious once cooked, emitting a floral scent that is quite intoxicating, and probably why it got its reputation as the forbidden fruit in Greek mythology. This year, our new neighbours did some pruning and this most delicious of fruits rained down into our garden – bliss. I love to puree it and use it to bind this Catalan-inspired alioli, instead of the usual egg yolk, but you can use pears or apples to equally good effect.
Parsnip and quince alioli layer cake
This layer cake is rich, garlicky and beautifully indulgent for this time of year. If you can find dairy-free cheese, it will also keep any visiting vegans happy. Pair with a crisp, green salad and pork sausages, if you are feeling hungry.
Prep 45 min
Cook 1 hr 40 min
Serve 6
2 large quinces, peeled, cored and cut into chunks
30g butter, plus extra for greasing
800g parsnips, peeled
400g floury potatoes, peeled
Juice and zest of ½ lemon
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
250ml mild olive oil or half olive oil and half sunflower oil
1 large yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
75g parmesan, grated
Cover the quince in water, bring to a boil and simmer briskly for 20-30 minutes, until tender. Transfer 300g of the cooked fruit to a mixing bowl and, using a hand blender, blitz to a fine puree, then pass through a sieve. Transfer the puree to a small pan and cook on a medium heat, stirring now and then, for five to eight minutes, until it begins to thicken. Scoop out into a blender and leave to cool; you will be blitzing the puree with oil so the jug needs to be wide enough for a stick blender.
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/gas 4, and use some of the butter to and grease a 26cm-30cm rectangular, ceramic baking dish. Using a mandoline or food processor with a slicer attachment, thinly slice the parsnips and potatoes to around 3mm thick, cover with cold water and put to one side.
To make the alioli, add the lemon juice and zest and garlic to the quince puree, and blitz with the blender for about 20 seconds. With the motor till going, start adding the oil drop by drop and, once you have mixed about a quarter, start pouring it in a slow, thin, steady stream, until all the oil has been incorporated and the mix has emulsified into a smooth, creamy mayonnaise. Season generously with salt and pepper and adjust the seasoning to taste. At this stage, I stir in a tablespoon of water to thin it a little.
Drain the vegetables and pat them dry. Layer a third of them in the prepared dish and scatter over half the onion. Season well and spoon over half the alioli. Repeat the layering, and finish with a final layer of potatoes and parsnips. Dot with the remaining butter, sprinkle over the cheese, cover with foil and bake for 35 minutes. Remove the foil and return to the oven for another 25-35 minutes, until the vegetables are beautifully tender and golden brown. Leave to cool for five minutes while you dress a green salad and tuck in.
