Perhaps it's '90s nostalgia (see also: The Body Shop Dewberry scent and Chanel Rouge Noir nail polish revivals) or the versatility of new iterations, but lip liner is having a huge renaissance. Sales shot up more than 25% last year alone.
The best lip liner’s ability to create a fuller lip look hasn't just caught our attention – it's also crossed the path of model and actor Cara Delevigne via a tip-off from her iconic godmother, Dame Joan Collins.
Rather than turning to aesthetic doctors for a lip plumping effect, Delevigne deploys a simple overlining trick taught by the legendary Dame Joan - so we've asked expert makeup artists exactly how we can have a go ourselves.
What is Dame Joan Collins' overlining lip technique?
Exactly what it says it is: using lip liner to enhance the shape of your lips, either on the natural outline itself, or just beyond it. Delevigne revealed the simple hack when discussing her beauty secrets with Bustle, saying, "loads of people think I got lip filler when I just get my makeup artist to overline my lips. Joan Collins, my godmother, taught me that."
No wonder this trick has A-list buy-in, as the vermillion border of our lips naturally loses definition with age; redefining them has an added youth-boosting bonus.
For those of us without makeup artists on hand, the technique is still more than doable. Gabriella Elio, make-up artist and founder of Sweed cosmetics, advocates going out with the lines. “Focusing on areas like the Cupid’s bow or the centre of the lips, when done well, creates the illusion of fuller, more defined lips while still looking natural and balanced.”
“The idea of lining with a slightly darker pencil – rather than matching it to your lipstick, which would have been the trend five years ago – is to construct shadow, creating a natural contour," agrees renowned British makeup artist Caroline Barnes.
RRP: £22
The make-up artist’s Pillow Talk might be the best-selling lip liner globally, but this double-ended alternative lets you tailor your overlining options to create an exact shadow match. Or use the more powdery, deeper-toned end to shape, paired with the creamy, lighter shade to fill in lips. It comes in four nude colourways - Fair, Medium, Tan, and Dark - all carefully matched to suit various skin undertones.
RRP: £18
More crayon than pencil, the wide, domed shape of the tip has been cleverly crafted to have an instant blurring effect, so you can forgo softening any lines with a brush or fingertip to create your plumping shadow. The magic ingredient is a blend of nourishing oils teamed with what Refy calls Blur-Gel Technology that creates a soft contour along the lip line when you press them together. Perfect for adding fullness on the go.
RRP: £22
It can be tricky to find lip products that balance a matte texture with easy blendability, but NARS pulls it off as well as throwing in a punchy colour payoff. Each of the seven intensely pigmented shades glides on and stays put all day without feathering or smudging. You don’t need to apply much pressure to get a beautiful outline (it’s a pencil that’s really going to last), and it sharpens easily to a fine point.
RRP: £24
The OG of natural make-up, Bobbi Brown’s lip pencils have shades that cover cool, warm, and neutral undertones, as well as pale through to black complexions. The pencil is sharp and firm to give great definition, but easily buffs down to create a soft, shadow effect for a plumper lip look. It also lasted through my five-a-day coffee habit, while still feeling comfortable for a formula that’s so hardwearing.
RRP: £7.99
With a brilliant price and an overwhelming amount of 5-star customer reviews, this pencil comes in 24 shades, so there’s plenty of scope to match your natural tone. The texture is velvety, while the tip isn’t too fine, meaning you get an outline that’s thick enough and adds ample colour if you want to use it all over. Or buff it inward from the lip line with your fingertip to tint the whole lip in a gradient effect.
RRP: £19
Boasts the firmness of a traditional pencil, but glides on smoothly and feels weightless, while the brush is short, flat, and firm enough to lightly diffuse lines. The formula includes ingredients that reinforce the skin barrier, including jojoba seed oil, which also hydrates and protects. Waterproof with six-hour wearability, it comes in colours from cool pink and deep mocha to cover everyone and can even double as eyeliner.
How does overlining make lips look bigger?
“Any kind of darkness you’re adding with make-up works to push back particular areas of the face,” notes Barnes. “This, in turn, adds depth and brings forward the skin next to it. When the lips are naturally full, a shadow is already there, and conversely, when you create a soft shadow behind your lips, it gives them a fuller look.”
It’s a universal technique that works on pretty much everyone. “Overlining can be used for most lip shapes,” adds Elio, “but it’s most effective when adapted to the individual. Rather than outlining the entire mouth, it works best when enhancing specific areas depending on your natural shape. The goal is to complement your features rather than dramatically change them.”
Prepping lips and choosing pencils
As any make-up artist will you, preparation is key for achieving the perfect result. “It’s important that lips are hydrated, but don’t use liner over lip balm as you won’t be able to get the adhesion you’d like,” warns Barnes. “They need to be supple but dry in order for the shade to stay on the lips. So applying to a soft, dry base will make all the difference.”
As for choosing the perfect pencil, texture is everything. “A creamy but precise lip liner is ideal for overlining,” recommends Elio. “You want a formula that glides on effortlessly without dragging the skin, while still having enough structure to stay in place. You want a texture that balances being smooth, blendable, and long-wearing.”
Expert tips for overlining your lips
Both of our experts agree that using a shade which mimics your natural lip tone, rather than your lipstick shade, looks fresh and modern as well as being the most flattering. “For the most natural result, choose a liner close to your own lip tone or just slightly deeper,” advises Elio. “This creates a soft, seamless base that enhances lip without looking overdone. You can then layer lipstick or gloss on top for an effortless, refined finish.”
Once lips are soft, smooth, and dry, take your sharpened pencil and start drawing with a light touch. “I start at the inner corner of the mouth and work up to the Cupid’s bow, then blend either with a cotton bud or eyeshadow brush to give softness and shadow rather than a line,” instructs Barnes. “That way the result is soft and diffused, creating that pretty, plump fullness in seconds.”
