One of this year’s hotly-tipped trends is the ‘calmcation’, and it doesn’t take a lot to work out why. Overloaded with news and wracked with uncertainty about the future, we’re all looking for a holiday where we can restore our cortisol levels and bring that soaring blood pressure back under control. It might seem clear enough how you do it: book somewhere quiet in the countryside, set your phone to silent and read a book. But what about if you’re a parent?
I’m at Denmark’s brand new Center Parcs Nordborg Resort with my husband, kids and dog to find out if the promise of a calm family holiday is too good to be true. On top of their five forest-based locations in the UK, Center Parcs also has locations across Europe: nine in the Netherlands, seven in France and six in Germany. Its first in Denmark near Sønderborg, opens this month, where it is set in landscaped nature, with an abundance of Scandi-style serenity.
It’s a bit of a secret that Denmark is wonderful in the summer – warmer than the UK but not too warm; quiet, and with beautiful sandy beaches. Rain passes quickly if it comes at all. It helps that the Danish school holidays are in July, so by the time English schools are out in August, resorts will be quiet. As southern Europe starts to feel too hot and too busy for a simple, carefree family holiday, looking to the north and the many options there is starting to feel like a good idea.
I’ve got history with family resorts; it’s a bit of a love-hate relationship. I love that they stimulate your kids and reduce the number of times they moan about being bored. I hate the way that I can’t relax because everywhere I look there are too many colours and too much noise. The issue with a family holiday is that there are so many different preference boxes to tick – and I’ll say it: it’s impossible to please everyone.
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We’re staying in a wooden cabin perched on a hill facing the sea. Inside, the design is nature-inspired, with pictures of seagulls on the pine-clad walls. I am delighted to find a sauna in one of the two bathrooms, along with essential toddler and baby gear, from step stools in the bathroom to plastic plates and cutlery, and black-out curtains. Nevermind that my children, aged 10 and 14, are well past that stage, I can remember how much it helps when these things are thought about.
The sauna is a particular delight because I can see a stunning modern angular badebroen – a Danish swimming pier – with a floating swim platform in the sea. We take a frigid dip in the Baltic Sea to start the day, with the sauna ready to warm us up after. This is good parent-pleasing stuff – perfect for inducing a sense of calm and wellbeing.
The park is laid out across a 190 hectare site, stretching from the coast into woodlands areas with activities dotted throughout. There is a small science museum at the entrance, which my ten year old loves, and it’s around 20 minutes’ drive from the nearest town, Sønderborg, where you can wander the shopping streets and harbour.
Younger children than mine would have a ball at the petting zoo with miniature donkeys, goats and sheep, and the playground shaped like a giant rabbit. The activity centres are great for families of all ages, with bikes and cycle rickshaws to rent, and mini football pitches for burning off excess energy. We stop to play pitch and putt on a nature-focused course: the obstacles are driftwood and piles of granite and polished marble. It’s all very easy on the eyes.
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Most of all, we love the Aqua Mundo water park. I have never seen my ten-year-old’s eyes glitter with so much glee as when I saw her disappearing in the waves of the wild water rapids ahead of me. We laughed so much our faces ached.
The resort lacks a spa and does not have a lot of activities that are only for adults – it is set up primarily for families – but the quiet coastal location means that you can take walks along the beach and through the forest without having to hear the clamour of children’s voices. I can see it working well for a group of friends – the stylish cabins and nature setting give you the feel of an upmarket cottage holiday, and there’s no need to participate in the family activities if you don’t want to. Zipping through the trees on rental bikes, scooters and rickshaws would be just as fun without the kids.
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For a real treat, skip the self-catering and book in to Dyvig Badehotel for dinner, a 10-minute drive from the resort. It’s a Danish feast to remember; expect towers of seafood and excellent desserts. It’s also an excellent spot for afternoon tea: this region is known for its South Jutland Cake Table, a groaning feast of 21 different types of cake (and ideally, you’re supposed to taste them all). That walk in the woods and swim in the sea suddenly feels like a great idea.
It’s not all perfect family fun, because families aren’t perfect, are they? My teenager would have preferred a loud and tacky resort and thinks that while this place is fun, it is also borderline boring; in fairness to her, it is better for families with kids under 10. I find the need to book activities, dinners, bowling and more ahead of time a bit annoying – I want to be relaxed and go with the flow. But I also understand that at a resort this size, you can’t just have people drift up and book things in the moment. You also have to pay for every little extra thing – bike rental, for example, and sheets and towels – but the water park is always included, and overall, rates are surprisingly good so it’s not that bad really. Who would have thought that about Scandinavia?
How to do it
A three-night stay at Center Parcs Nordborg Resort for a family of 2 adults and 2 children starts at £764.
Airlines including British Airways fly to Billund Airport, which is a 1 hour 45 minute drive from Center Parcs Nordborg Resort. Flight time is around 1 hour 35 minutes.
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