Agave is a special succulent. Sure, it’s the building block for some of the world’s most popular adult beverages. But in the highlands of Oaxaca this sturdy, spiky plant enjoys an almost supernatural status. While mezcal might be top-of-mind for many here in the US during Día de Muertos, in Mexico they celebrate agave spirit all year round. For anyone who reveres this booming category of liquor, a journey to Oaxaca is more than mere vacation—it’s a pilgrimage. And El Silencio has now positioned itself as an obligatory stop along the way.
This autumn, the top-selling producer opened doors to Casa Silencio. Combining a working distillery, gourmet restaurant and five-star guest lodge, it’s a first-of-its-kind operation for mezcal. Never before have visitors to the region been able to stay inside a palenque. Much has already been written about what the experience is like overnight here. In the remote valley town of Xaaga, only 30 miles removed from the capital city, you feel like you are at the edge of the earth. Although mezcal production and food preparation is quite traditional, the edifice itself is a shrine to modernism, with a continual nod to minimalist sensibilities. As the kids are want to say these days, “It’s a mood.”
But for $1000 a night, you’re in need of more than a mood. You’re demanding world-class mezcal. And that’s precisely what they have on pour here. You can look forward to no less than seven bottlings of precious agave spirit, exclusive to this location. Sip them by the dram, or take home full bottles of liquid that’s frustratingly rare.
Here are the highlights (with full bottle prices in parentheses):
Lumbre — ($500)
With aromas of milk chocolate, marzipan and damp forest floor, this is an eminently complex spirit to behold—even before you take your first sip. Once you do, you’ll pick up a pleasing minerality to match slightly sweet barbecue notes.
Sierra Negra — ($300)
A fruity nose with slightly floral intonations before the fade. It yields hints of cinnamon and cedar in a prolonged finish.
Jabalí — ($400)
Pours out an herbaceous fragrance with notes of wet wood. On the tongue a harmonious dance of berry fruit, burnt sugar and pine.
Tepextate — ($300)
The most curious of the bunch, surrendering a milky note, with hints of leather and slate. Super dry on the tongue and yet against all odds, it all works wonderfully together.
Tobasiche — ($270)
A slight vinegar note to the nose gives way to tropical fruit on the palate. A wild ride for the senses.
After indulging in ultra-premium agave spirit, visitors to Casa Silencio can enjoy an intimate rundown of how the liquid was constructed in the first place. The property is built around a courtyard containing the tahona mill used for extracting juice from the roasted piñas. Fermentation and distillation occur steps away from the well-appointed guest suites.
At dinner, mezcal cocktails are prepared by dedicated mixologists. The colorful drinks arrive on a communal table—fashioned from 17 tons of basalt—paired alongside a whimsical menu designed by Rodolfo Castellanos (the first winner of Top Chef Mexico). The entire experience can best be described as Instagram catnip.
Scoring those sweet, sweet ‘likes’ will take time and effort, however. Oaxaca Airport is currently only served directly from the US by way of Dallas and Houston. Once you land, you’ll need to navigate rural—and often rocky—backcountry roads to arrive at this luxury lodge. A taste of El Silencio, by comparison, remains eminently easy. It’s currently the most widely-distributed mezcal in the States, recognizable by the opaque black bottle of its Espadin flagship.
If you want a taste of something more closely related to the exclusive offerings at Casa Silencio, opt for a bottle of Ensamble which infuses elements of two wild agaves: Tobasiche and Mexicano. It’s an intoxicating way to celebrate the flavors of Mexico during Día De Muertos, and, well, pretty much every day of the calendar year.
