I'm pretty fussy about fragrance. Despite the steady stream of new bottles that hit my desk each month, I like to stick to old favourites. My current roster includes BIBBI Ghost of Tom, Penhaligons' Halfetti and Maison Margiela Under The Stars.
Since writing about fragrance, my scent preferences have evolved. I once gravitated towards soft florals—romantic, airy and feminine—and would reach for these fragrances without hesitation. Now, I find myself leaning more and more towards those with deeper notes. Think tobacco and oud grounded by citrus, notes traditionally associated with 'masculine' fragrances.
So, when PROEM by U Beauty entered my life, I was genuinely surprised by its softer, floral and fruity notes. And even more shockingly, I haven't been able to put it down since.
What makes this fragrance so different?
This innovation is the very first scent from U Beauty, a brand known for its streamlined approach to skincare through its SIREN capsule technology, which tailors formulas to individual needs and concerns. The name itself, "Proem", is a preface, which leaves us wondering whether the fragrance collection will be expanded.
At its heart, PROEM is unabashedly feminine. It has floral notes like centifolia rose and Chinese magnolia, as well as a spicy kick of pink peppercorn; vetiver lends it a woodiness, but the juicy lychee and tart rhubarb, although sweet, keep it fresh.
This creation is the result of the collaboration between the brand's founder, Tina Chen Craig, fragrance legend and perfumer Roger Schmid, and highly sought-after nose Jérôme Epinette. "It's fitting that three unique people were required to make Proem," says Craig. "In the past, I’ve had to mix fragrances to achieve something that feels singularly ownable. Now, much like we’ve done with skincare, we’re streamlining your fragrance wardrobe, saving you from having to blend multiple scents to attain something standout. PROEM is your entire scent wardrobe in one bottle.”
Still, this is a compelling choice for those who shy away from traditional florals. This perfume gradually transforms throughout the day, allowing you to enjoy a multitude of different notes.
The verdict
For me, it was truly love at first spritz. It felt like a wonderfully mature interpretation of the fruity floral fragrances I had previously been drawn to. So much so that it sits in my bag, equipping me for all occasions.
This is the kind of fragrance that immediately commands attention and gets you noticed. Every time I wear it, I'm met with a flurry of compliments. So much so that I have started carrying little vials in my handbag for my friends. Something I've noticed is how different it smells on each of us. What fascinates me is how PROEM adapts to the wearer. On my skin, it opens with a citrus hit that oddly reminds me of grapefruit, though it's not listed as an ingredient, while on one of my friends, you could immediately smell the arresting pepper notes.
I have always loved layering my perfumes, first for their staying power and second for creating an entirely new and unique fragrance. For me, PROEM evokes a similar effect. What sets this fragrance apart is its ability to echo the best of others, yet still feel entirely singular and exciting.
