When amateur photographer George Woods and his family moved down to Hastings in the 1880s, they joined a legion of Victorians migrating south from the smoggy capital in search of pure, restorative sea air.
Displayed in the Fishermen’s Museum along the seafront, his black and white images document an era when this coastal town was thriving – women wearing flamboyant bustles shade from the sun with frilly parasols, and salty sea dogs fix fishing nets while puffing on clay pipes dangling from their lips.
Even more fascinating – for me – is the fact Woods lived in my house.
Six months ago, I left London for a place where properties are still relatively affordable. Initially driven by economics, I quickly discovered the benefits of waking up to sea views and listening to gulls squealing from rooftops. An even greater find, though, was the spirit of entrepreneurial optimism that’s been disappearing from London for some time.
Like so many Victorian seaside resorts, Hastings and neighbouring St Leonards-on-Sea fell into decline during the seventies and eighties. Buildings were abandoned and facades crumbled. But artists, writers and creatives have a habit of breathing new life into decaying spaces – and that’s exactly what’s happened here.
St Leonards has led the way, with bars and restaurants trailing along the Kings Road which runs from the mainline station, where trains take an hour and 20 minutes from London Bridge. A playful vibe continues along the seafront with cool cafes like the colourful Goat Ledge serving coffees, croissants and craft beers to dog walkers, joggers and locals watching waves crash along the pebbly shore.
Following suit, main town Hastings is slowly reinventing itself. Located along the pier, which was renovated and reopened in 2016 following a devastating fire, the Samphire Sauna serves anyone keen to embrace hot/cold therapy with a dip in the English Sea. A few metres away, boards can be heard cracking against concrete in The Source skatepark. Head down to the courtyard where the local Brewing Brothers Brewery serve their beers on tap.
Look up to dig deep into the roots of this town’s evolution. Reached by a near-vertical climb are the ruins of Hastings Castle, built by William the Conqueror in 1066. The stone fortification – and several other local landmarks – feature in the Bayeux Tapestry, the famous fabric narrative of the Norman conquest of England. This autumn, the masterpiece will be loaned to the British Museum until July 2027 as part of celebrations heralding 1000 years of the belligerent Norman king’s birth. What a shame it won’t be displayed here.
More history was made a short stroll away on West Hill, where Scot John Logie Baird conducted early experiments for the mechanical television. Pathways and tunnels once used by smugglers now trail into the Old Town, a cluster of lanes filled with cute cafes, vintage stores and rummage shops.
One thing I love most about my new home is the sea view from my study. But visitors to the area can go one step better by staying further west along the coast. A 15-minute train ride from Hastings, the Relais Cooden Beach spills out directly onto the sea. From bedrooms, the restaurant terrace or even the pool table, it’s possible to sit for hours staring at the sparkling water. A couple of minutes’ walk from the station, the mock Tudor building – which was once a family home – has been brought up to date with jolly deck chair stripes and an Aromatherapy Associates spa.
After a glass of local Kent wine, strolls along the beach are almost mandatory – walking past private homes where firepits flicker to gaze up at clear skies exploding with stars.
Here are a few more fine places putting Hastings on the map…
Bayte
It’s a skill to create a space where you can hear yourself think but still be surrounded by people. This knockout convivial neighbourhood restaurant fills up fast on a Saturday night – but there’s none of that London queuing around the block nonsense needed to sit down and savour a good meal. A compact but varied menu makes choices easy – classics like steak and sea bass are cooked with flair in an open kitchen, served alongside locally grown vegetables and leaves from the chef’s garden in Lewes. A selection of focaccia sandwiches is a gourmet lunchtime treat. Visit bayte.co.uk.
Boatyard
The accolade of ‘best fish and chips’ is a hotly contested title in Hastings. Hands down, the winner is a palate-pleasing plate served at one of the region’s most exciting restaurants. A cider batter gives a meaty hunk of plaice a sweet flavour and crisp crunch. It’s the definition of other-worldly and a firm favourite on a chalk board menu presenting inventive new dishes with every turn of the tide. Chefs make use of as many local ingredients as possible, but draw inspiration from their travels. Other delights include gurnard with local shellfish, Pernod butter and sauteed baby gem lettuce, and Sussex green beans sprinkled with almonds, anchovies and sherry vinegar. Visit boatyardstleonards.com.
Find the restaurant in Heist, a marketplace of independent outlets close to the seafront in St Leonards. A sister venture – the Farmyard – can be found closer to the station, serving organic meats, Sunday roasts and – very soon – some natural wines from the owners’ microwinery. Visit farmyardwine.com.
Half Man! Half Burger!
When Rory Myers and his business partner Matt Woodhouse set up shop along the seafront a decade ago, the area was close to being a cultural and culinary wasteland. So much has changed over the years, partly sparked by their pioneering efforts. There’s no messing about with the menu here – it’s all about burgers and they’re damn good. Go for a classic Big Cheese or blow the tastebuds with a Chilli Nelson – a patty slathered with slow-cooked beef chili, pink onions and chipotle mayo.
Afterwards, pop next-door to Rory’s low-fi Ritual bar for cocktails and local craft beers. A former Londoner who spent a stint in Brighton, he firmly believes it’s the influx of creatives and a vibrant spirit that makes St Leonards and Hastings so special. Both venues can be found along the front of Marine Court, an iconic art deco block built to mimic an ocean liner. Visit halfmanhalfburger.com.
How to plan your tripDoubles at the Relais Cooden Beach start from £170 per night with breakfast.
