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The Independent UK

Kim Wiltshire

These Portuguese islands offer respite for my neurodiverse family

Thomas Faro Jet2

Kim Wiltshire had never entertained the idea of venturing abroad as a family – until she considered the Ria Formosa - (Kim Wiltshire)

In 2017, we drove home from a nightmarish camping trip in Somerset with our children, thinking we would never go on holiday again. We were miserable and a bit beaten, battered by the meltdowns and the stress.

That night, we reminisced about the holidays we’d had when we were just a couple, such as the fortnight in a whitewashed cottage on Culatra, a Portuguese island in the Ria Formosa lagoon. As we looked at each other, I slowly began to wonder if it would be possible to return as a family.

New places can be anxiety-inducing for anyone, but for neurodivergent kids, the prospect can be truly hellish. My son Thomas has autism spectrum disorder (ASD), dyspraxia and learning needs, while his brother, Harry, has ADHD.

We had never entertained the idea of venturing abroad as a family. Dealing with security queues, coach transfers, different time zones, no space around the pool and cramped apartments had always seemed like too much of a challenge.

But the Ria Formosa islands – which include Baretta, Fuseta, Armona, Culatra and Farol – are special, and we thought it might, just about, be possible to visit together.

Crucially, they are car-free, and commercialisation is minimal. In 1987, the Portuguese government designated the tidal lagoon a national park to protect its unique biodiversity. This means that human intervention is slight: while people have reportedly lived on the remote peninsula for thousands of years, development has been limited.

Fishing boats dot the harbours of Fuseta as the traditional industry remains. But there aren’t built-up hotels or busy towns. This is a place for appreciating the seasons, rather than squeezing them for their commercial potential.

Fishing boats dot the harbours of Fuseta (Getty/iStock)

Each island is flanked by vast, quiet beaches, and most of the properties are the second homes of Portuguese families. Could we risk taking the boys there? Maybe Easter week: not too busy, not too hot? Was it worth a shot, at least? Yes, we decided, it was.

Planning was key. We had to simulate something as close as possible to home, so we rented a bungalow (a bedroom each for the boys, because sharing is a nightmare) with a kitchen, TV and wifi.

In such a home-from-home, we had the meal planner up in the kitchen, kept to a similar daily routine, and the boys could use their electronics for games and keeping in touch with mates. Portugal is in the same time zone as the UK, which means there’s no confusing adjustment period.

Unbelievably, it worked that Easter – so we went back the next year, and the next, and the next. And we returned again this summer.

Many visitors combine a visit to the Ria Formosa with a trip to Faro on the mainland (Getty/iStock)

Many tourists stay on the mainland, in Faro or Olhao, and travel across the lagoon each day. For us, however, staying on Culatra is crucial. This way, we can access the beach in the early morning and evening when no one else is about.

We typically leave the house at 8.30am, and Thomas usually complains the whole way to the sea. He hates the rickety boardwalk, he hates other people (such as an older couple offering a cheery “Bom dia!”) and he hates the sand. All we can do is sympathise and keep him walking along.

Before the parasol is unfurled on the almost-empty beach, his sandals are off and he’s in the sea. His big sensory obsession is water, and at low tide he will spend around an hour splashing about, falling over and finding shells. That means he will be pretty calm for the rest of the day.

Harry is more chilled. He’ll chat for a while, dig some holes in the sand, then grab his snorkel to search for sea creatures.

After about two hours, the beach starts filling up. This is our cue to leave.

We typically grab an ice cream, visit one of the mini-markets, and buy fresh fish for a lunchtime barbecue – in the afternoon, we let the boys have chill-out time in their bedrooms. Harry loves to make stop-motion animations, while Thomas watches online videos.

The ability to mirror our usual domestic life means that, when challenges do arise, they can be met calmly and practically, in our own space.

The beaches are remarkably empty (Getty/iStock)

Unlike traditional package holidays, there isn’t much to do, and the slower pace won’t be for everybody – but it works for us.

The islands’ exceptional natural beauty means that we can take things at a slower pace. We go for meals, look for bats at dusk, search out house lizards after dinner, and, with so little light pollution, stargaze at night.

It is this quiet and calm that resets the boys – and, of course, us as well – for the year ahead. And next summer, we’ll be back again, ready for the respite offered by the Ria Formosa.

How to visit

July and August are hot and busy, so best to avoid. Easter is a respectable 16 to 20C, although there’s a chance of rain. If you’re not bound by school holidays, June and September are lovely – and, of course, cheaper.

Getting there

Many airlines fly to Faro, so prices vary enormously, especially around school holidays.

Return flights in August costs around £2,000 with Jet2 for a family of four. Outside of school holidays, this can be halved. We use Jet2 because their disabled assistance is excellent, as are the Faro airport ground staff.

Taxis to Olhao take around 20-25 minutes and cost €25 (£22). From Olhao, ferries to Culatra cost €4.10 (£3.50) return for adults and €2 (£1.75) for children under 10.