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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
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Julie Falconer

'There's always something new to discover': a local’s guide to London

St Paul’s cathedral as seen from the Tate Modern.
St Paul’s cathedral as seen from the Tate Modern. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian

There’s enough to do in London to fill a lifetime. From cultural and culinary attractions to concerts, festivals, and exhibitions, the city offers myriad opportunities to indulge and explore. I hail from California, and in my 11 years of living in London I’ve learned a lot about the city, both in my own explorations and in taking friends and family around when they visit. Truly, there is always something new to discover, even in the most well‑trodden neighbourhoods.

Getting to London to take it all in is easy, too. London Northwestern Railway offers turn‑up‑and‑go prices for off‑peak return tickets starting at £12 in the south-east, to £20‑30 from the Midlands and the north-west, so you don’t have to book ages in advance to get a good deal. Add to that even cheaper advance fares for super‑savvy travellers from £6 and a mix‑and‑match option with a single and advance if you can’t find two advance tickets, and there is even more value to be found.

What to see

Once in London, there’s a lot of choice when it comes to how you spend your time. If you only have a day or two, I recommend starting on the South Bank. The London Eye, National Theatre, British Film Institute, and other world-class creative institutions all congregate on the South Bank, meaning it’s a lively hub of culture. December is a particularly exciting time to visit, as the annual Winter Market fills the area with seasonal cheer and circus magic.

181026 GL CoventGarden 5991
Rose Street, Covent Garden. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
181026 GL CoventGarden 5996
Covent Garden’s cobbled streets are great for shopping. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
  • Covent Garden’s cobbled streets are great for shopping

Covent Garden is another postcard favourite, and must-see. It’s in the heart of theatreland, but is mainly known for its shopping and street entertainers who line the cobbled streets. The Shop at Bluebird and Petersham Nurseries are styled to perfection, and Stanfords is a travel lover’s paradise – the globes alone make it worth a visit.

When retail therapy gets tiring, immerse yourself in the stage world – the nearby Royal Opera House is the place to see ballet and there are musicals playing on seemingly every street corner. Seeing The Nutcracker at the Royal Opera House is a must during the Christmas season.

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Hampstead Heath: an oasis of calm. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
  • Hampstead Heath: an oasis of calm

Any visitor to London will find that the urban bustle can get overwhelming pretty quickly. When that happens, Hampstead Heath is the ideal place to escape. One of London’s biggest and wildest parks, it has been the backdrop to countless books and films; an oasis of calm in the city large enough to lose yourself in. Indeed, rambling through it can feel like being out in the countryside. For a hit of the genteel, stopping for tea at historic Kenwood House is a must, as is exploring the side streets in leafy Hampstead village. Back Lane and Mansfield Place are full of colourful facades and hidden houses, while the warren of antiques shops off Heath Street is also fun to explore.

What to do

It’s impossible to do everything in London, but the Tate Modern is a great place to start. Entry to view the vast permanent collection is free, and here you’ll find some of Europe’s best contemporary art. The platform on the top floor of the Blavatnik Building offers a panoramic view of the city, too.

GL Tate 5980 Tate Modern
The Blavatnik Building at the Tate Modern. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
  • The Blavatnik Building at the Tate Modern

Another touristic must, is riding the London Eye. Not only is it an icon, but its views of the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace, and the South Bank are unparalleled.

Heading east, you’ll find the markets in Spitalfields and on Columbia Road. Old Spitalfields Market is packed with vintage treasures and food stalls, among which Climpson & Sons is a great choice for coffee. Nearby, the Sunday markets on Brick Lane have everything from handmade jewellery to coffee served from a converted black cab. The Sunday Upmarket is a great choice for fashion and accessories, and the food stalls are perfect places to pick up everything from fresh juices to meringues.

Down the road, the Columbia Road flower market is one of the most aesthetically pleasing markets in London, its bright blooms attracting locals and visitors every Sunday morning (the earlier the better if you want to avoid the crowds). It’s a favourite for Instagrammers, and I can see why.

And if colour is your thing, afternoon tea at Sketch in Mayfair is a must. The high-end eatery regularly collaborates with top artists to create an immersive experience, tantalising all the senses. Right now, artist David Shrigley has designed the space; it’s full of his ubiquitous comic line drawings in a pretty-in-pink setting, and with pastries galore it’s worth the splurge to go for tea in such an enchanting atmosphere. Wait till you see the egg-shaped loos too, which may well be Britain’s most-Instagrammed bathroom.

A local’s guide to London – TripAdvisor reviews

Where to eat

While afternoon tea is a must, the city is world-renowned for its culinary offering at all ends of the price range. Borough Market is a local favourite, its outdoor stalls brimming with everything from cheese to chocolate and charcuterie. You’ll see the queue outside of Monmouth, which sells some of the best coffee in London, and the produce stands glisten with fresh vegetables.

The Bread Ahead bakery stall at Borough Market.
The Bread Ahead bakery stall at Borough Market. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
Borough Market’s stalls brim with all kinds of fresh produce.
Borough Market’s stalls brim with all kinds of fresh produce. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
Wheels of Comté on Borough Cheese Company’s stall at Borough Market.
Wheels of Comté on Borough Cheese Company’s stall at Borough Market. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
  • Borough Market’s stalls brim with all kinds of fresh produce

In-the-know locals also head to Maltby Street market, which is quieter and less crowded than Borough Market. Ropewalk, off Maltby Street, has shops among the stalls selling everything from vintage furniture to fresh bread. Bad Brownie has mouthwatering chocolate creations and Lassco is the perfect place to pick up vintage treasures. The market itself is tucked into every corner of the area, with one surprise after another leading visitors through its vendors.

When a restaurant is called for, Rovi in Fitzrovia is a great choice. Run by Yotam Ottolenghi, one of London’s most inventive chefs, Rovi has a lot of atmosphere around its central bar and serves highly creative cuisine such as crumpet lobster toast with kumquat and chilli sauce.

Olivio in Belgravia.
Olivio in Belgravia. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
This Sardinian restaurant cooks up mouthwatering pasta.
This Sardinian restaurant cooks up mouthwatering pasta. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
  • Olivio in Belgravia

For something more intimate, head to Olivo in Belgravia. This Sardinian restaurant cooks up mouthwatering pastas, and the house red is a classic match for the food – juicy and delicious.

Where to drink

But if you’re after somewhere with more than just a wine list, London has innumerable good bars and pubs to choose from. Mr Fogg’s Residence in Mayfair was inspired by Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days. The interior is a travel-lover’s dream, complete with Phileas Fogg’s hot air balloon in one corner. Best of all, its extensive list of innovative cocktails all go down a treat.

The Holly Bush in Hampstead.
The Holly Bush in Hampstead. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
Wood-panelled rooms and open fireplaces give The Holly Bush an old-world feel.
Wood-panelled rooms and open fireplaces give The Holly Bush an old-world feel. Photograph: Ola O Smit for the Guardian
  • The Holly Bush in Hampstead

For something more casual, the Holly Bush pub in Hampstead is atmospheric and cosy. Wood-panelled rooms and open fireplaces give it an old-world feel, and the fact that it’s tucked away on a side street makes it appear like a secret waiting to be discovered.

On the livelier side, Canova Hall in Brixton features intimate booths along the windows offering privacy for small parties, while communal tables and a big bar allow those who want to mingle plenty of opportunities.

And that’s really what London is about: opportunities to see, do, eat, drink, and discover all the UK capital has to offer. Just make sure you plan on coming back a few times to see it all.

Julie Falconer runs the award-winning travel and lifestyle blog A Lady in London

For the best value tickets, with no booking fee, visit londonnorthwesternrailway.co.uk

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