As we approach the end of the year, I find myself reflecting on 2014 “in wine”. We saw a renewed focus on the importance of terroirs and indigenous grapes. Styles such as vin jaune from the Jura region of eastern France, or niche wines from Denmark, typify the winemakers who choose to produce under difficult circumstances or with little regard for profit, simply because they believe in them. Meanwhile, consumer interest in brands and deals is waning. As with food (the first UK farmers’ market took place in Bath in 1997, today there are more than 800 nationwide), people are looking for traceability and transparency from wine. The rise of interest in domestic wines is a good example, such as Bolney Estate Pinot Gris 2013 (£16, thewinesociety.com).
Perhaps more than any other region, things are changing in Champagne, where flashy marketing and celebrity hype is no longer fashionable. (Yes, Kim Kardashian, we are talking about you). Consumers increasingly lean towards family-owned producers whose wines express their land authentically. A prime example is AR Lenoble Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (£29.99, thewinereserve.co.uk), a blend of 100% Chardonnay from vineyards they own in the Grand Cru village of Chouilly. The buttery, fleshy notes from Chouilly soils speak for themselves.
The natural wine movement, with its focus on sustainable viticulture and the reduction of chemical interference, is starting to attract real attention too. An increasing number of wine drinkers refuse to accept something that has been manipulated in a laboratory. Organically made from estate-grown fruit, Seresin Rachel Pinot Noir 2010 (£21.95, thevinorium.co.uk) from Marlborough, New Zealand is delicious proof that this movement has legs. Returning to the basics certainly isn’t limited to wine. The breadth and diversity of craft beer is getting better, too, such as Kernel IPA Ella Citra Apollo Simcoe (£2.86, alesbymail.co.uk).
Let’s also pay tribute to those we’ve lost in 2014. As Albert Einstein said: “Energy cannot be created or destroyed, it can only be changed from one form to another.” The brilliant Laurence Faller, one of Alsace’s most dynamic (and biodynamic) winemakers, left us far too early this year. Domaine Weinbach Altenbourg Gewurztraminer 2007 (£35, thewinesociety.com) is a testament to her genius with its profound notes of rose petals and exotic fruits. We also bid adieu to the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild: a visionary in every sense of the word, she led a remarkable life before becoming one of the leading lights of the wine world upon her father’s death. Toast her memory with a glass of Château d’Armailhac 2000 (£87, bbr.com), a Bordeaux vintage as memorable as herself.
This is a great moment to reflect upon what’s important to us: I’ll raise a glass to that.
Christian Holthausen is a Franco-American wine specialist living in London. Twitter: @bosiechampagne
This is Christian’s last column for the present. But look out for our new drinks column Empire of Drinks next week.
