Stay over in Staithes
The eclectic personality of Staithes reflects residents past and present. In the jumble of tiny cottages that spill down a gorge to the harbour have lived James Cook (later Captain), who came to work in a grocer’s store, and the influential Staithes group, a 19th-century artists’ group. It’s home to the Staithes festival of arts and heritage in September, and is a shoo-in for basecamp on a trip that takes in culture, natural history and a yomp.
Rest up at the Endeavour B&B, where host David Linley is a walking encyclopedia of activities, and heritage tales. He makes a mean breakfast too: don’t miss the kippers from Staithes’ own smokehouse. For dinner, try the delicious crab salad at the Royal George – like all pubs in this fishing village that’s something of a sovereign state, it’s independent and family owned. And if food and flavours really are your thing, then book a day of coastal foraging and cooking tips with Taste the Wild, which runs courses out of Staithes. Co-founder Chris Bax says: “Foraging reflects the resurgence of diversity in food: we let people rediscover things we used to eat but have dropped out of fashion.”
The Attenborough in all of us will want to get closer to wildlife in an area rich in flora and fauna from moor to sky to sea. Jump aboard a birdwatching and cetacean safari with ecologist Richard Baines at Yorkshire Coast Nature (YCN) and you might just see some minke whales. Or stay grounded and snap up a seabird photography workshop with YCN’s Steve Race.
Find your wave
Stand-up paddleboarding is “surfing without the faff of having to get up while the wave is breaking all over you,” says Simon Palmer, explorer, who co-founded SUP Adventures with Dan Fawkes. Both have that ex-military knack of turning what should be a gruelling encounter – with messy sea, two left feet or black skies – into a fun escapade and day-long grin. “People love it because it’s so accessible, irrespective of ability. It’s a terrific confidence booster if you’re anxious about getting out to learn a new activity or getting in the water. And it’s an all-body workout too.” Conquer position, posture and paddling technique at postcard-pretty Sandsend or alongside Saltburn’s trim, elegant Victorian pier. Then treat yourself to a follow-up session to learn how to read wave conditions and ride on to the beach. For something more stretchy, try SUP Adventures’ river yoga. Determined to have a Point Break moment? Head for surf spots at Staithes, where the rock bottom breaks produce powerful and defined waves (experienced surfers only). Or dip a beginner’s toe at Whitby’s West Cliff beach with Whitby Surf School.
Hike into nature
If watersports aren’t your thing, then hiking along this extravagantly handsome Jurassic coastline, creaking with 200m years of stories, puritanical Victorian glamour and fishing folklore, will definitely get your heart rate up. North Yorks Moors senior ranger Bernie McLinden offers some tips: “Hayburn Wyke is a fantastic place to get to,” he says, referring to a secretish cove at the southern end of the North York Moors national park. “I was there at 7pm last night and even spotted a couple of surfers: they seemed to be having a great time.”
With a waterfall that plops on to the beach, it’s a fairytale scene to take in on a circular five-mile walk that goes south along the Cleveland Way and returns along part of the Cinder Track, a defunct 21-mile railway line from Whitby to Scarborough that’s great cycling too.
Another inspiring journey is the “source-to-sea” hike that picks up the river Esk at Westerdale Moor and closes at Whitby’s harbour mouth. At 37 miles, the full walk takes three or four days, but the Esk Valley railway enables you to cheat and do a day’s chunk to suit. “You might be lucky enough to see an otter along the way,” McLinden says. “At Sleights, if it’s the right time of year, you can see salmon leap. And in springtime, the woodland areas across the park are just wonderful, brimming with the beauty of the bluebells, primroses and ramsons.”
Back in Staithes, if you have just 15 minutes to spare you can sprint southwards then upwards on to the cliff and a new part of the England Coast Path, to get the best view of the waterside hamlet. If you have longer, plump for a four-mile circle, taking in the industrial ironstone past of Port Mulgrave.
Paddle back in time
The Dinosaur Coast has never been more alive than when kinetic geologist, marine biologist and sailor Peter McGrath is talking about the natural kingdom that surrounds smartly turned-out Runswick Bay. He says: “One of ‘my’ best finds in 40 years came from my daughter Ruby on one of her first fossiling trips. ‘I’ve found an ammonite,’ she shouted casually. Not just any ammonite! A rare 18cm Hilderocas bifrons is a very good find.”
McGrath is on a mission to discover and photograph every fossilised and living thing he can in the area, and shares his vast expertise with interested visitors as part of local firm Barefoot Kayak’s fossil foray team.
If McGrath is the vim in this expedition, topping up your knowledge of fossil poo and Devil’s toenails (coprolites and Gryphaea respectively), Barefoot Kayak’s founder, paddlesport guide and coastguard Andy Monaghan provides the calm – putting the newly waterborne at ease with a deceptively laid-back style that nails safety. Paddling along with the duo is relaxing and stimulating in equal measure. Sea kayaking is manageable for most people and great for independent travellers or family groups with a yen for adventure.
Don’t leave home without ...
Women’s Outdry Ex featherweight shell, £180
A light, waterproof shell with external seam tape and inner wicking, this breathable jacket is ideal for hiking. It also has pockets and an attached hood.
Men’s Powder Lite hybrid hooded jacket, £100
This lightweight jacket comes in a hybrid, water-resistant fabric, giving stretch and breathability. Features include zippered pockets, a scuba hood and a drawcord-adjustable hem.
Remote Access 25-litre pack, £32.50
Featuring an aluminium frame, this pack has Techlite shoulder straps, an integrated rainfly and space for your trekking poles.
All products available at cotswoldoutdoor.com/brands/columbia
Columbia Sportswear, in partnership with UK national parks
