In summer, when there are masses of brightly coloured seasonal fruits and vegetables, recipes using these ingredients seem de rigueur, and Instagram is abuzz with images of beautifully plated rainbow food. As the days get cooler, however, there is much to be said for the quieter colours of autumn: softer-hued platefuls can be just as attractive and comforting, as can softer textures. Today’s silky-smooth soup is a case in point; the smoky cheese toasts that go with it turn this into a proper meal. The pizzas take a more muted route, too, eschewing red tomato sauce for a rich mixture of cheese, truffle oil and soft, gooey roast artichoke. Embrace the weather and snuggle up.
Rich celeriac and potato soup with smoked cheddar on toasts
This is tangy with creme fraiche, lemon, mustard and that gorgeous taste of celeriac. The same flavourings make for a killer mash, incidentally. Serves six.
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked, plus extra to serve
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
40g butter
1 celeriac, peeled and chopped into large chunks
1 large maris piper potato, peeled and chopped into chunks
1 litre good vegetable stock
100g creme fraiche
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
½ lemon, juiced
For the cheese toasts
1 knob softened butter
6 thick slices granary bread
125g finely sliced oak-smoked cheddar
Fry the onion, bay, thyme and a pinch of salt in the butter on a medium-low heat for 10 minutes, until softened but not coloured. Add the celeriac and potato, stir to coat, then add the stock and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook for 35 minutes, until tender. Blitz with a hand blender until smooth, season to taste, then add the creme fraiche, mustard and lemon juice; if you prefer a looser soup, thin with a little just-boiled water.
Heat the grill to medium. Butter the bread and toast on a baking sheet for a minute or two, until golden. Top with the cheese and grill for about three minutes more, until golden and bubbling.
Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle with a scattering of thyme leaves and serve with the toasts.
White pizzas with jerusalem artichokes, ricotta, pecorino, rocket and truffle oil
Jerusalem artichokes go beautifully sweet and caramelised when roasted; the peppery rocket here acts as a good counterbalance, as well as giving a touch of colour to the otherwise creamy-looking pizzas. Makes four.
300g jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed
3 tbsp cider vinegar
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
200g ricotta, well-drained
25g pecorino, finely grated, plus extra to serve
16 very thin slices fatty pancetta
Truffle oil (optional)
Rocket, tossed in a little lemon juice, to serve
For the dough
7g sachet active dry yeast
240ml warm water
1 pinch sugar
2 tsp fine sea salt
50g semolina, plus extra for dusting
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for kneading
360g plain white flour
For the dough, dissolve the yeast and sugar in the warm water in a large mixing bowl. After five minutes, stir in the salt, semolina and olive oil, then sift in the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until you have a stiff dough.
Oil a work surface and your hands. Turn out the dough and knead it for several minutes, until smooth and shiny. Transfer to a clean, oiled bowl, brush with more oil and cover with a damp tea towel or lightly oiled clingfilm. Leave to rise in a warm, draught-free place for an hour (or two, if need be), until almost doubled in size.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Cut the jerusalem artichokes into chunks and toss in a roasting tin with the vinegar and oil, season generously, then roast for 40 minutes, until golden and chewy.
Punch down the dough and divide into four balls (you can freeze them at this point; they will prove while they defrost and come to room temperature), cover in lightly oiled clingfilm and leave to do a final rise for about 45 minutes.
Heat the oven to 210C/425F/gas mark 7 with four large baking sheets inside (or bake them in batches if you haven’t the oven space). Remove the clingfilm from the dough balls and roll or stretch them into thin circles. Generously scatter semolina on each hot baking tray and, working quickly so the trays don’t cool down too much, lay on a pizza base and top with crumbled ricotta, grated pecorino, the artichokes and the pancetta slices. Bake for seven to 10 minutes, until the edges and base of the pizza are just crisp and golden (if the pancetta is getting too crisp, cover the pizza with foil).
Remove from the oven, drizzle with truffle oil, if using, and top with the lemony rocket and extra pecorino. Season lightly and serve.
And for the rest of the week…
Wafer-thin batons or wisps of raw celeriac are delicious in salads. Or use excess creme fraiche to make a remoulade dressing with wholegrain mustard and lots of lemon juice (and grated fresh horseradish, if you can get hold of some): it works brilliantly with sliced ham or smoked fish. Smoked cheese is very good in baked potatoes, and as a topping for sweated leeks. The pizza dough can be made and frozen ahead of time, while the roast artichokes are also wonderful in salads: try them with crisp chicory, finely diced shallots and crumbled blue cheese.
