Now that the sun is starting to show its face, and summery buds and shoots are showing signs of life, it feels a bit of a tease that the weather still has a bit of a chill to it; it doesn’t help, either, that the early summer vegetables and soft fruits (I’m talking peas, asparagus, broad beans, gooseberries, wet garlic and all the rest) are all still so far away. The range of ingredients at my local market hasn’t really changed for weeks, because we’re still in the annual “hungry gap” that stretches right through to the end of the month. In the meantime, I’m turning to the still plentiful, stoic brassicas and give them a spring makeover. I like to think of it as a new wardrobe to welcome (slightly) warmer weather.
Purple sprouting broccoli with sunshine dressing and toasted buckwheat
The quick, easy dressing brings glorious colour and bright Asian flavours to a salad that is simplicity itself. Serves four.
450g purple sprouting (or tenderstem) broccoli
2 tbsp sesame seeds, ideally equal amounts of both black and white
50g buckwheat
25g sunflower seeds
100g sprouted seeds, washed and shaken dry
1 small handful coriander leaves, roughly chopped
A few pinches Aleppo pepper (or other dried chilli flakes)
A little feta, crumbled (optional)
For the dressing
2 medium carrots (about 150g), peeled and roughly chopped
2 round shallots (about 50g), peeled and roughly chopped
50g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp white miso paste
60ml rice vinegar
1 tbsp honey
2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 small handful fresh thyme leaves
120ml vegetable oil
To make the dressing, whizz together everything but the oil in a powerful, upright blender, then, with the motor running, slowly pour in the oil until fully incorporated. Loosen with water – about four tablespoons gives the right pouring consistency – and put to one side.
Peel the broccoli stalks, then cut them into slivers about the width of your little finger; cut the florets into pieces of similar width – none of the broccoli pieces should be longer than about 5cm. Bring some water in a steamer to a boil, then steam the broccoli until just tender but with a little bite, six to eight minutes.
Meanwhile, toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan on a medium heat, tossing frequently, until golden all over, and tip into a small bowl. Do the same first with the buckwheat until golden and crisp, add to the same bowl, then with the sunflower seeds.
Once the broccoli is cooked to your liking, lift it out of the steamer and leave it to cool for a minute. Spread it out over a large, wide serving plate and drizzle all over with the dressing. Scatter with the seeds, sprouts and coriander leaf, dust with a little chilli and, if you like, some crumbled feta, although the salad is delicious without.
Macaroni, anchovy and purple sprouting broccoli cheese
The addition of broccoli lightens the heft of a traditional macaroni cheese, while the anchovies lend it a bewitching depth of flavour. Serve with a crisp, green salad. Serves six.
400g macaroni
250g purple sprouting broccoli, chopped into 2cm pieces
45g butter
10 anchovy fillets, chopped
3 tbsp plain flour
2 bay leaves
1 litre whole milk
A few gratings of nutmeg
3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked
150g gruyère, comté, mature cheddar or lancashire (or a mixture thereof)
100g grated parmesan
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp breadcrumbs
Olive oil, to drizzle
Heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas 6. Bring a big pan of salted water to a boil and cook the macaroni for two minutes less than stated on the pack; add the broccoli to the pot for the final two to three minutes. Check that both are tender, then drain and run under cold water to cool off and refresh.
Melt the butter in a pan on a medium heat, stir in the anchovies and cook, crushing them into the butter, until they break down. Add the flour to the pan and stir constantly for a minute, then add the bay leaves. Slowly pour in the milk, whisking constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil and begins to thicken. Turn down the heat to low, simmer gently, stirring frequently, for four to five minutes, then add the nutmeg, thyme, the gruyère/comté/cheddar/lancashire mix and half the parmesan, and stir until you have a smooth, luscious sauce. Season to taste.
Combine the warm sauce with the pasta and broccoli – add a splash of boiling water if it seems a bit thick and in need of loosening, then spoon into a baking dish. Mix the remaining parmesan with the breadcrumbs and sprinkle on top, drizzle with a little oil (and drape over a few more anchovies, if you like), then bake for 20 minutes until golden, bubbling and delicious.
And for the rest of the week…
The carrot and ginger dressing is as versatile as it is delicious: try it as a dip with crudites, or as an unusual vinaigrette for an avocado or tomato salad, or over raw fish for a spicy sashimi-style plate, perhaps adding a sprinkling of finely chopped fresh green jalapeño. Toasted buckwheat adds body and crunch to any salad, so is one to experiment with. If you have bought a whole bag of shallots for today’s first recipe, consider buying one more and some good all-butter puff pastry, and making a shallot tarte tatin: it’s remarkably simple and very moreish.
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