I can’t prove that tequila tastes better in Mexico or that Cognac is finer in France. I just know it to be true. Yes, the terroir is vital to their production, but it’s much more than that. There’s something about having a pour in their native land that makes these spirits more spiritual.
So it is with Scotch.
In Scotland, whisky isn’t just a drink to be savored before dinner (and after)—it can also transform a sauce, elevate an oyster and, yes, even add a pick-me-up to breakfast porridge.
Edinburgh may no longer be home to any distilleries, but it’s still worthy of a pilgrimage for anyone who appreciates a quality dram. To guide me through Scotland’s capital, I reached out to Brown-Forman’s Rachel Barrie—who happens to be the master blender for BenRiach, The GlenDronach, and Glenglassaugh. So you can be sure all her recommendations are topnotch.
“Having frequented the city’s pubs for 31 years, it’s nearly impossible to distill down to a list of 13. We’re spoiled for choice with Edinburgh’s burgeoning bar scene. The city has some of the best drinking establishments in the world, celebrating the old whilst embracing the new,” Barrie says. “Rooted in 18th and 19th century drinking history, its bars are brought to life by the bold, adventurous spirit of pioneering bar owners today. Most are within easy walking distance—from the vintage grittiness of the Old Town to the modern style and grandeur of the New Town. You can experience the most enlightening adventure through Edinburgh’s past, present, and future, as you visit the bars on this list. As with appreciation of fine single malt Scotch Whisky, diversity, individuality and character are the name of the game, some of which is reflected in my list of favorite Edinburgh bars.”
But that’s not all Barrie has to say about Edinburgh. To feel like a local, there’s one amusing detail on Scottish culture that you may want to heed: “Scots take it in turns to buy a round of drinks for the group, termed ‘standing your round’ and toast with ‘Slainte Mhath’ meaning good health.”
RACHEL BARRIE’S TOP 13 EDINBURGH BARS AND PUBS
Voodoo Rooms
“This is a cut above the rest with its opulent and grand decor, award-winning mixologists, and theatrically-themed areas (speakeasy, ballroom, The French Quarter). I go here most often for parties and it’s also one of the best comedy and cabaret venues (Venue 68) in the Edinburgh Festival Fringe.”
99 Hanover Street
“I worked here as a student—so it always feels familiar and reminds me of student life. Nowadays, the bar has a vintage retro feel with ’70s and ’80s vibes combined with plush surroundings, which I love. Don’t be surprised to watch mashups of Starsky & Hutch, Transformers, and Cannonball Run (to name a few) on the screen in sync with the DJ’s beats.”
The Devil’s Advocate
“With hundreds of whiskies in the shelf, Devil’s Advocate has a phenomenal range of single malts combined with devilishly good surroundings,” Barrie says. “Sitting in an old Victorian pump house in Advocate’s close in the haunting atmosphere of the Old Town, I love the spooky feel in winter and cool feel in summer. The food, service, bartender knowledge, and whisky cocktails are exquisite. A great place to take my kids for lunch—with a relaxed family feel, especially at Festival time as it’s close to all the excitement of the Royal Mile.”
Scotch at The Balmoral
“A whisky lover’s paradise. Cozy and elegant, filled wall-to-wall with the finest selection of 500 single malt Scotch whiskies, and personally tailored service. Cameron and Fraser are your own personal kilted barmen: attentive, extremely knowledgeable, friendly, and raring to find your perfect dram,” Barrie says. “If you’re staying at The Balmoral hotel, you’ll be spoiled every night. And if not, expect to be spoiled every visit, as time is spent getting to know you and enrich your experience of Scotch. The serving of Swiss chocolate and smoked almonds is a lovely touch that pairs perfectly with the finest single malts.”
Bramble
“GlenDronach (which means valley of the brambles) bottled a superb single cask exclusively for Bramble. It has a good range of single malts, but cocktails are its forte: Fresh-thinking and unconventional, this is the bar to try something new and unexpected,” Barrie says. “It’s hidden away in the basement of a New Town townhouse with virtually no signage, so you have to seek it out. With the relaxed conviviality of your living room, it’s a great place to spend time with close friends—and small enough to make new ones. Its range of unconventional cocktails is hard to beat.”
The Queens Arms
“A haunt of mine for decades, this bar is furnished like an old library with Chesterfield leather seating and walls of books lit by lanterns. It has barely changed, other than an increased whisky and cask ales selection. And it now boasts its own Queens Arms whisky club, which is free to join. As well as making the best Blood and Sand cocktail in Edinburgh, they have the best gastropub food, a favorite haunt of ours for Saturday family lunch.”
The Bow Bar
“This is where I take visitors from out of town to experience the traditional, no-frills ambiance of the Grassmarket, with amazing cask ales and a huge range of single malts, stocking many of the whiskies I make today—from the full range of GlenDronach, many eclectic BenRiach expressions, and even a Glenglassaugh 45 Year Old (under lock and key). In 2017 it was awarded the “Best Pub in Scotland” and when you see their whisky selection, this is no surprise.”
Bannerman’s
“Another student haunt, where I went (and reunite) with my chemistry university friends, and frequented whilst working at Scottish & Newcastle brewery in Canongate. Nowadays, I go there to enjoy the electric but laidback atmosphere, listen to the best live rock music, drink great real ale, and sip an eclectic range of whisky.”
Scotch Whisky Experience
“As expected, a phenomenal range of single malts served by knowledgeable bartenders,” Barrie says. “It’s right next to Edinburgh Castle at the top of the Royal Mile and boasts a complete whisky experience—from riding in a barrel to hear the story of Scotch, to educational tastings and master classes, food pairings, and a tour of the largest whisky collection in the world. It’s always bustling with tourists from every corner of the globe, making it one of the most cosmopolitan venues. Amber restaurant is also superb for dinner, with its bar of seemingly endless malts.”
Whiski Rooms
“A great venue for whisky flights and food pairings: with whisky and cheese, and chocolate and whisky matching events. When you find a malt you love, there’s always the shop through from the bar, part of the experience with over 500 whiskies.”
Canny Man’s
“Where my husband proposed to me, 25 years ago. This was our local pub when we lived in our first flat in Morningside,” Barrie says. “An Edinburgh institution, established in 1871 and passed through generations of the same family, it’s like an old curiosity shop with 240 whiskies (served only in “old-style” 35-ml measures) and is a great place to find rare single malts bottled decades ago. Expect to be surrounded by vintage clocks, instruments and photos, and the odd mannequin and bicycle hanging from the ceiling. And it also makes the best Bloody Mary in town.”
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, The Kaleidoscope Bar in Queen Street
“Close to my heart as I used to manage the stocks for the Society and spent a great many hours chairing panels at Queen Street to select casks for bottling,” Barrie says. “The society is on all four floors of a Georgian townhouse—a great way to experience the grandeur of Edinburgh’s New Town, with spectacular views across the Firth of Forth. With 200 single malts (all single casks), this is undeniably the place to go to seek out the widest expression of the malt distiller’s craft.”
Panda & Sons
“On Queen Street, this relatively new kid on the block is one of the quirkiest bars in Edinburgh, with the outdoor appearance of a Vintage Barbershop, indoor feel of a speakeasy, and what I love most: its cozy creature comforts,” Barrie says. “Award-winning bartender Iain McPherson is the owner and created the idea of the Panda family running this place, which brings a wonderfully fun and homely feel. The Bamboo cocktail (PX sherry, orange bitters, and dry vermouth) is my favorite.”
