The Shepherd's Rest's appeal is obvious.
This countryside pub a short way from Todmorden has some of the best views in the north west, as well as huge pies cooked fresh to order and bar staff who greet everyone like an old friend.
When it snows up in the hills, The Shepherd's Rest transforms into a Narnian wonderland in the blink of an eye.
Inside it's all oak beams and big tables built for big gatherings, with wide windows along one wall affording views over the rolling hills and to the Stoodley Pike Monument.
There's also a beer garden outside, with a massive wooden climbing frame for kids.
When we pop in on a Sunday mid-afternoon, we're seated quickly - but barely. We nab the last table in the place.
What's cooking?
A leather-bound book of specials lands on the table with a thud. It announces set menus with three courses for £13.25 (Monday to Wednesday), lunchtime plates for £4.50 (Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays between 12pm and 2.30pm) and a range of specials including pie of the week for £10.95.
With no cheap deals available at the time we're there, we instead inspect the laminated main menu.
There are Sunday roasts from £8.95, flame-grilled burgers, filled baguettes and a decent selection for vegetarians too.
We order a portion of vegetarian chilli nachos to share for a starter (£10.25), a gargantuan bowl of tortilla crisps molded together with melted cheese.
On the side is a bowl of smoky chilli packed with plenty of peppers and kidney beans, as well as some fiery chipotle dipping sauce, sour cream, and guacamole that is definitely not fresh.
Guac aside, it's a hearty and delicious way to kick things off.
Next is the Whitby scampi and chips (£9.95). The breadcrumbs pull away from the tender meat whenever they take a dip into a condiment, leaving us to spoon the perfectly-seasoned batter out of little ramekins of mayonnaise.
It's a hands-on lunch, child-like glee taking over as garden peas ping across the table and fat chips leapfrog from ketchup to mayo to barbecue sauce and back again.
Pies are the pride of The Shepherd’s Rest, made fresh to order with a wait time of up to 45 minutes. More than happy to linger in my cosy surroundings, I order a broccoli, leek and Stilton number (£10.45) which is, by anyone’s standards, a LARGE pie.
It stands tall and proud on the plate, a lovely crimped golden crust circling the top. The robust pastry soon crumbles away and allows a creamy pool of Stilton to spill out onto the plate.
It’s incredibly sharp - the broccoli’s cooked a fraction too long to add any freshness - but the mushy peas help to pick my dairy-soaked tastebuds off the floor.
Can I get a decent pint?
It's a fairly uniform selection of beer on the taps.
There's Shipyard, Guinness, and Peroni flying out from behind the bar like there's no tomorrow, plus bottles of Koppaberg and Estrella.
Prices on the wine list range from £14.95 to £18.95, or £17.95 o £29.95 for sparkling.
Should I save room for dessert?
We're really too full for dessert - did you see the size of that pie? - but are wooed by what our waiter promises is the 'best Bakewell tart ever'. Go on then.
He's not far wrong. A wedge of cake arrives, a moist almond sponge with a lightly cracked surface sat atop a neat layer of cherry jam. A little more almond flavour and we'd be ordering another slice for the road.
Other desserts available - though judging by the blackboard the dessert menu comes on, desserts do change regularly - include a cheese board, sherry trifle, sticky toffee pudding, hot chocolate fudge cake and waffles.
There are also a couple of specials in the form of an apple and plum crumble, and an orange and chocolate cheesecake.
Are you being served?
We've arrived halfway through a shift change so we manage to work our way through the entire rota of staff in the pub - and they're all excellent.
We're welcomed with a jolly wave from the bartender, who hands us over to the restaurant team and from there on we're treated to chatty and efficient service throughout.
It probably helps that we're positioned right near the till and subsequently in the direct eye line of the waiters, but we certainly feel well-looked after.
What's the damage?
Our bill comes to £37.15.
That's for a large sharing starter, two massive mains, and a pudding.
It feels like incredibly good value for money, given how stuffed and sleepy we are by the end of it.
The verdict
Even on a bleak November day with howling gales, it’s eerily tranquil up here.
Welcoming service and big portions of home-cooked food make this a little Sunday haven that I struggle to leave.
Greater Manchester doesn't really have a claim to The Shepherd's Rest - but good lord, do I wish it was ours.
The Shepherd's Rest Inn, Lumbutts Rd, Todmorden OL14 6JJ | 01706 813437 | shepherdsrestinn.co.uk
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