Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Wales Online
Wales Online
Entertainment
Thomas Deacon

The tiny Cardiff restaurant that made it into the Michelin Guide amid a pandemic

A tiny Cardiff restaurant has made it into the Michelin Guide despite only being open just months before coronavirus hit.

When Nook in Canton opened back in August 2019, the coronavirus pandemic was just around the corner.

But in the short time it was open as a "normal" restaurant, it built a cult following and was one of those places everyone seemed to be talking about. When the pandemic did hit, the restaurant, which serves small plates and natural wine, had to downsize even further and it's now serving takeaways to the local community.

Despite the current situation, the little spot opposite Victoria Park has made it into the world's most influential food guide.

Phill and Deb Lewis, who are also behind popular pizza spot Dusty's, said they were "over the moon" to be recommended in the Michelin Guide.

On Tuesday Phill said: "We opened in August 2019 so we only had six months of trade before we had to shut down.

"The challenges are obvious. It was only a small restaurant anyway, 24 seats, and then post-lockdown one we had to reduce to 14 seats. That was probably more challenging than running a takeaway service.

"Thankfully the local community love what we're offering. It's a different style of takeaway. It's been very well received so we've been very lucky."

With many successful years of running Dusty's, they found that some of their more experimental ideas, while popular, weren't fully suited to a pizza joint. You can read more about Dusty's rapid rise here.

So when the unit on Cowbridge Road came up for grabs they decided to set up Nook.

Phill said: "We started it after recognising a gap in the market. We wanted to introduce the concept of small plates which wasn't really being done on a massive scale.

"We wanted to create a high quality, interesting dining experience for people that didn't already exist in Cardiff at the time. And it was a natural kind of progression for us."

The site was a former restaurant so their team could move in and the project quickly got off the ground, soon becoming the next 'must visit' place.

Phill explained they wanted Nook to become a "neighbourhood restaurant" that would serve the local residents.

"In these times obviously we are doing takeaway, but lots and lots of people request delivery outside of the area and we see these takeaway kits, which is great, and ambitious and good for business.

"But we're very conscious of being a neighbourhood restaurant and servicing that neighbourhood. That's our priority, we're for our local community."

The restaurant had no idea that they'd be mentioned in the Michelin Guide and only found out when their head chef spotted it on Monday.

You can see the other Welsh restaurants that made it into the guide here.

Support your local takeaways here:

Phill said: "We were over the moon. We've been open six months prior to lockdown and it's been sketchy with opening and closing and lockdowns, so to be able to achieve a bit of recognition for such a short space of time is amazing.

"And it is a real boost at a time when the hospitality industry is taking such a battering - to get recognised by the Michelin Guide is phenomenal.

"The team have worked so hard and there's so much integrity in what we do and I'm just pleased that's being recognised."

But despite the recognition and loyal support, Phill said the lockdown means it's no easy time to run a restaurant. He explained that they're currently seeing around 40 or 50% the normal income from pre-lockdown.

"It's still been extremely challenging."

He added that while the furlough scheme has been valuable, it's "not the answer" and hopes to see further advice and announcements from the Welsh Government soon.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.