The test... parmigiano reggiano

Taste the Difference Parmigiano Reggiano, 30 months matured, £19.95 per kg, Sainsburys

Great depth of flavour. Tangy and nutty, it’s nonetheless pretty approachable. Photograph: Katherine Rose

Unpasteurised Parmigiano Reggiano, 36 months matured, £34.50 per kg, Harvey Nichols

Creamy and crumbly – perfect for lopping bits off and eating on their own. Photograph: Graeme Robertson

Lovillio Parmigiano Reggiano, 24 months matured, £12.89 per kg, Lidl

Extremely palatable. On the mild side, and holds its own very well against many of the pricier supermarket parmesans. Photograph: Graeme Robertson