At a workshop in the small Yorkshire town of Guiseley, a young woman is hard at work, transforming the humble marshmallow.
In Britain, these sweet, gooey titbits are traditionally thought of as a cheap novelty to be thrust into a raging inferno. But here, in the hands of 25-year-old patissier Oonagh Simms, they become something deliciously different, a handmade delicacy, flavoured with raspberry and champagne, blueberry and gin, or strawberry and basil. These are gourmet treats, to be savoured, paired and discussed.
Simms embarked on the mission that became The Marshmallowist four years ago, and has since gained a cult following, including the likes of Tom Kerridge, Paul Hollywood, Gizzi Erskine and Selfridges, which now stocks the budding entrepreneur’s entire range.
But it wasn’t always so easy.
“Back in 2011, the UK was a marshmallow wilderness,” says Simms. “I only found out how good marshmallows could be after moving to Paris when I was 18, where I studied as a patissier. Almost everywhere you go in France, you can find really good quality marshmallows that have a delicate, soufflé-like texture and really interesting flavour combinations.”
Inspired by her experience, Simms returned to London and began selling her wares from a stall on Portobello Road.
Within two years, The Marshmallowist was ready for larger premises. Rather than stay in London, Simms moved back to her native Yorkshire, where she convinced a local baker to let her use his oven. Having outgrown that, Simms has now opened her own workshop, in nearby Guiseley.
“If you can imagine the most idyllic building possible, it’s that,” she says. “It’s made of old Yorkshire stone and has a huge window displaying all the fresh fruit I use. While its primary use is as a shop and workshop, I’m also planning on using it as a kind of marshmallow school, where I can teach people how to make marshmallows, as well as how to incorporate them into delicious dishes.”
While the workshop does function as a place for locals, The Marshmallowist’s appeal is far broader. The 25-year-old has amassed a nationwide fan base and now makes several thousand marshmallows a week for weddings and events.
Simms has also impressed buyers at Selfridges, who have invited her to take part in their pioneering Meet the Makers scheme, showcasing the UK’s most exciting artisan producers.
On 10 September, the Selfridges Foodhall will host a launch party with cooking demonstrations, food tastings and a chance to meet “The Makers”, including Simms. This year the winning producer, decided by a public vote, will be the recipient of a six-month mentoring programme from the team at Selfridges, covering product development, packaging and marketing.
“I’m obviously really excited about the chance of winning,” says Simms. “But one of the most important parts for me is meeting customers face to face – it’s all part of my master plan to convert each and every Brit into a marshmallow-loving connoisseur.”
Meet the Makers showcases some of Selfridges’ most inspiring artisan food producers. Discover Meet The Makers products in Selfridges Foodhalls and online at selfridges.com/MeetTheMakers throughout August and September.
