Arriving in South Africa for the first time, Jamie Theakston hoped he'd found the perfect place to unleash his inner daredevil. Luckily, there are few better destinations for thrill-seekers than KwaZulu-Natal, where Jamie had come for an adrenaline-pumping activity holiday.
"There was a sense of adventure about it from the start," says the TV and radio presenter, who checked in at Rocktail Beach Camp, which lies in the lush, tropical shade of Maputaland coastal forest. "Despite having a busy schedule mapped out for the week ahead, I had no idea what to expect."
He soon found out. This rugged yet sophisticated coastal province, lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, is as exciting as it is beautiful, yet far from the tourist trail of South Africa's more famous destinations. The lodge Jamie stayed in at Rocktail is a collection of luxurious treehouses in the middle of a protected reserve: "It's so beautiful and peaceful, the ideal place to chill out after a long journey," he says.
Jamie's visit took place in late spring, when pods of humpback whales swim close to the South African shore to calve, before heading north again to their feeding grounds in the Atlantic. But would he be lucky enough to spot any of them on his trip offshore? "We headed out in a tiny rib skippered by local boatman Clive, keeping our eyes peeled for spray from the whales" spouts," says Jamie. "Suddenly, there they were, about 100 metres from our boat: a whale and her calf elegantly breaching the surface to swim alongside us. What an unforgettable sight that was."
Jamie also spent a day quadbiking, which is a great way of exploring the historic and culturally diverse Zululand region. "We covered miles, occasionally passing through villages whose inhabitants were delighted to see us," he says.
Each day became another adventure, not least when Jamie moved on to Phinda game reserve for his first experience of tracking South Africa's Big Five.
This vast game reserve is not fenced off, so the animals in this wilderness sanctuary are free to roam past the guest lodges, which can lead to some unexpected encounters, as Jamie discovered.
"We were sitting on the veranda one afternoon and there, about 50 metres away, were a pair of giraffes. They were totally relaxed, as if they had seen it all before. And being a gangly, 6ft 5in man, they probably thought I was one of their own."
That same evening, Jamie went out on a game drive with one of Phinda's highly skilled rangers, who managed to get their open safari truck within a few metres of a young cheetah, an experience that Jamie found mesmerising. "The big cats are easily spooked, but this one simply lay in the grass and turned its gaze on me – a very powerful moment."
There was a totally different surprise in store for Jamie on the journey back to the lodge, as the sun sank over the mountains that fringe this stunning landscape. "Our driver pulled up in a forest clearing where the trees were strung with tiny kerosene lamps," says Jamie. "There was a gourmet barbecue set up, complete with white table linen, silver cutlery and crystal. He left us to feast on beef and roast lamb, with some excellent South African wines, promising to collect us a couple of hours later. It was fantastic, dining under the stars while the wildlife roamed in the scrub nearby."
The following morning's adventure was a daytime truck safari, taking Jamie out into the open savannah with a ranger and a tracker in search of white rhino. "When we spotted them in the distance I realised how truly enormous these creatures are, far bigger than the black rhino, but thankfully less aggressive," says Jamie. "As we got closer, our ranger suggested climbing out of the vehicle and approaching them on foot. We kept quiet and were able to creep up close – at which point the rhino looked directly at me. Being stared down by a white rhino is an experience I never expected to have, but after a few minutes he lost interest in me and carried on grazing."
Jamie's biggest adrenaline rush, however, came not from South Africa's wildlife. It happened when he moved on to Durban, KwaZulu-Natal's largest city, where he did his first ever bungee jump, the famous Big Swing from the 106-metre high arch over the Moses Mabhida Football Stadium.
The evening before the Big Swing brought an opportunity to explore Durban's Florida Road, the heart of city nightlife and home to some spectacular restaurants and stylish bars.
When the moment for his jump came, Jamie says: "I was terrified, because I'm afraid of heights. The view from the top of the arch was incredible, but after the jump was over I had never been so glad to feel my feet on the ground again."
The following morning Jamie was scheduled for another leap into the unknown – the once-in-a-lifetime experience of diving among sharks in the warm waters of Rocky Bay. He says:"Our captain threw fish overboard to attract the sharks, and about 30 of them quickly surrounded us. I imagined I would go down inside a solid, steel cage, but the soft cage is more like a giant string bag, with floats and metal rods to make it more rigid.
"Thankfully the sharks were friendly, keen to swim around and check me out – it was lovely seeing them at such close quarters and I felt surprisingly relaxed among them."
Looking back over his week of adrenaline-fuelled thrills, Jamie says: "It's funny – I am not someone who loves being around water, but diving with sharks and seeing humpback whales were the real highlights of my trip to South Africa. It's given me some amazing experiences and lasting memories – I will definitely be going back for more."
There speaks a true adventurer.
Swing 'n' surf
KwaZulu Natal on South Africa's south-east coast is a superb destination for adventure seekers, as Jamie discovered. Durban's bungee swing from the arch of Moses Mabhida stadium is unique – there is no other stadium in the world where you can do this, and it is also the largest bungee swing in the world – 106 metres down with a 220-metre swing across the pitch.
Durban is South Africa's surfing and watersports capital, with high temperatures and consistently good waves. Boarders can choose between long tubing point breaks, dredging beach breaks, grinding reefs and soft sandbars. The city is also packed with surf shops, boasting all the latest surfwear, top-quality equipment and accessories. Rocky Bay, where Jamie swam with the sharks, is the Natal South Coasts's safest launch site.
Chill out later at the bars along Florida Road, or dine out on one of the curries for which Durban is renowned.
Thrill-chasers should make it their mission to discover this dynamic South African coastline.
