One of my favourite movies growing up was Baby Boom. Released in 1987 and starring the peerless Diane Keaton, it told the unlikely story of a career woman, J.C. Wiatt, who inherits a little girl (I know). The film poster shows Keaton—child in one hand, briefcase in the other—wearing a shoulder-padded blazer, a pencil skirt and almond-toed pumps. And it pretty much sums up why skirt suits, until now, lost their way after the ‘80s. Don’t get me wrong, I loved J.C.—and, obviously, Keaton looked fabulous in her pinstripes, pussy-bow blouses and clip-on earrings—but, coming of age in the early ‘00s, it felt even then like an outmoded visual representation of "having it all", skirt suit included.
In a not-very-imaginative leap, trouser suits became "The Thing", their minimal lines in palette-cleansing neutrals epitomised by ‘90s Calvin Klein, and in today’s world no tailoring is necessary with "business casual" dress codes a widespread consequence of hybrid working culture. Then came Chanel SS26. Matthieu Blazy’s debut was always going to be a moment, and in terms of house codes, no garment depended on its success more than skirt suits, a pairing that is still enduringly associated with its founder Coco Chanel.
Actions speak louder than words so to list the celebrities who have already worn his skirt suits might tell you whether or not they made their mark: Ayo Edebiri (who was spotted in one of his two-pieces as recently as 8 June), Teyana Taylor and the world's favourite bride, Dua Lipa, who, incidentally, chose a custom-made skirt suit, this time by Schiaparelli, for her legal ceremony in London.
Since then, the skirt suit's resurgence has only continued into summer, with airy fabrications, plus seasonal prints, giving the set a certain lightness suitable for simmering temperatures. Its most recent endorsement came from Chloë Sevigny, who, yesterday, wore a pink-and-white checked two-piece by Vivienne Westwood. Styled with a slicked-back bun, and equally slick pumps, it was cute but not too cute, feminine but with crucial bite. Another fan is Kristen Stewart, a long-time stan of Chanel, who wore the brand's easy-breezy skirt suit, complete with a black logoed bikini top, at this year's International Biarritz Film Festival; a summer take on suiting if ever there was one.
Finally, Milly Alcock—aka, Supergirl—who wore a sheer skirt suit, ever so slightly more boxy in silhouette, by Thom Browne. With an elongated column skirt complementing two-tone slingbacks, not to mention its subtle pinstripe, it was a lesson in how classic pieces—the kind that would have appealed to J.C. Wiatt—are still in business.
The Best Skirt Suits To Shop Now
Vivienne Westwood's tailored jacket is very Cher Horowitz.
Chloë Sevigny's skirt is slightly longer, but this kilt version hits the mid-thigh for a cute summer update.
A monochrome twinset has subtle '60s energy, especially with the black-on-white edging.
Almost resembling a shift dress together, but with the versatility of being separates, this skirt suit will make heatwave workwear a lot more palatable.
I love how this skirt suit can be summer-fied with ankle-tie gladiator sandals but, courtesy of its berry sheen, would also work for Christmas.
This leather pony-hair skirt is an investment, but one that you can enjoy over a lifetime.
Either component will also work with other tailored pieces in your wardrobe.
Is there anything chicer than a single-breasted (and single-button) suit jacket?
Perhaps the only thing chicer, in fact, is an ankle-length suit skirt.
Inspired by Dua? By Malene Birger's skirt suit would make a very elegant registry-office look.
The flaring skirt complements the jacket's cropped silhouette to perfection.
