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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
World
Joanna Taylor

THE SET MENU DIGEST

Have you ever heard of an ingestible Shit Storm? No, me neither, until I looked at the menu in F***offee on Bermondsey Street. There, chalked on the blackboard near the f*** Boris paraphernalia, is London’s most explicit coffee, which is ‘just four shots of espresso’, says the barista taking my order for a rather meek iced white Americano. ‘We have a couple of people who come in and have it every day. Yeah, mad, I know.’ A few Reddit rabbit holes say this isn’t something new. Also known as a ‘quad’, the brew is favoured by those keen to start their day with a bang.

There isn’t enough space on this page to surmise what type of people are drinking such a thing, so let’s just settle on unhinged. The real question is: should we, too, be drinking the Shit Storm, and can it really help us kick ass in the day ahead? According to nutrition specialist Doctor Sarah Cooke, ‘Some health benefits of coffee include increased sports performance, and there is some evidence that coffee-drinkers have a lower risk of developing type 2 diabetes and heart disease.’ However, ‘the recommended safe limit of caffeine per day is 300mg and a “Shit Storm” containing four shots would be around 250mg of caffeine in a single serving.’ This, says Cooke, can lead to ‘increased anxiety and agitation, headaches, palpitations, a racing heart, sweating, nausea, diarrhoea and insomnia.’

That would explain the name, then. We’ll stick to any other beverage and one of F***offee’s delectable XL pastries, thanks.

FRESH PLATES

Piping hot new spots across the capital

ELIS

(Elis)

Rafael Cagali, the man behind two Michelin star Da Terra, has unveiled a second, more casual eatery within the Town Hall Hotel, where you’ll find plates inspired by his Brazilian-Italian heritage and wine curated by Noble Rot.

Now open. 8 Patriot Square, E2 restaurantelis.co.uk

CASA DO FRANGO

(Casa Do Frango)

The city’s beloved upmarket piri-piri powerhouse has given us another excuse to dine out by opening a third spot on Heddon Street, serving succulent southern Portuguese-inspired chicken and plenty of vinho verde.

Now open. 31-33 Heddon Street casadofrango.co.uk

NORMAN’S AT SEED LIBRARY

(Norman's)

It’s your lucky day. Two of London’s top spots have formed a short-term coalition, so you can now enjoy one of Mr Lyan’s Red Dandelion Negronis while devouring Norman’s famed cod’s roe and frazzles.

Now open. 100 Shoreditch High Street, E1 seedlibraryshoreditch.com

NAKED & FAMOUS

(Naked and Famous)

Take a peek underneath Greek restaurant Zēphyr in Notting Hill and you’ll find this spectacular new agave bar serving an excellent selection of carefully chosen mezcals, tequilas and inventive cocktails.

Open now. 100 Portobello Road, W11 zephyr.london

A THIRST FOR FRIEZE

As the art fair returns to Regent’s Park, Douglas Blyde suggests some cocktails to match

(Fitz’s)

Now in its 19th year, Frieze London continues to focus on innovative practice, so here is a trio of artfully inspired cocktail experiences available during the festival. At Amethyst, the Quatrefoil was created in conjunction with artist Pablo Bronstein. Showcasing Bronstein’s limited edition X Muse Scottish vodka, available from November, the perfumed drink stars purple basil and pink grapefruit cordial, topped off with a white poppy rim.

Meanwhile at Fitz’s, guests can book a place on a masterclass titled The Theory of Colour, where cocktails are paired with different treatments of the 1660 Dutch artwork, Still Life of a Vase of Flowers, by Nicolaes van Verendael. Finally, in celebration of the Bright Young Things, a blithe generation of artists, writers, socialites and performers who illuminated interwar London, head to the classy Fumoir bar at Claridge’s for swizzles, sours, daisies and juleps, served in Lalique crystalware against the backdrop of an original 1931 Lalique panel.

(amethystdining.com; fitzs.co.uk; claridges.co.uk)

THREE OF THE BEST: ROAST DINNERS

(Marksman)

MARKSMAN, E2

Tuck in to some of the city’s most succulent beef and waxy roasties after battling through the hordes of flower fiends at Columbia Road Market. Remember to save room for tart.

BLACKLOCK, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Can’t decide on one meat? Have a mix of this joint’s beef, pork and lamb, all slowly roasted over coals and served with the most generous mound of all the trimmings.

THECAMBERWELL ARMS, SE5

Sharing is caring, so grab a friend and dive into any one of the hearty, inventive dishes on offer, such as the half spitroast chicken with chicken fat crème fraîche for two.

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