There’s nothing better than spending a sunny spring or summer day surrounded by the perfume of roses and taking in the visual splendour of irises, hydrangeas, and ancient yew trees.
Carmarthenshire is certainly no stranger to delightful gardens, with its unofficial title as “the garden of Wales” and the National Botanic Garden of Wales firmly positioned within its borders.
A little less than seven miles from the National Botanic Garden are the smaller, but no less magnificent, Aberglasney Gardens. It’s concealed by the rolling hills of the Tywi Valley, where pastureland brimming with sheep, cattle, and hay bales are more prominent than Aberglasney’s gated entrance.
But once you’re through the gates, there’s no denying you’ve touched down somewhere special; a place with over 20 different styles of gardens in over 10 acres, which have frequently been used for TV productions. In fact, the gardens became popular after a BBC TV series called A Garden Lost in Time followed Aberglasney’s restoration period. The beginning of Aberglasney’s history is uncertain, but there is an early mention of “nine green gardens” in a medieval poem. It wasn’t until the time of the first High Sheriff of Carmarthenshire, Sir William Thomas, who was knighted by King Henry VIII, that Aberglasney’s story is recorded.
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During his tenure, the garden’s chapel was established; and a century or so later, the property was bought by Bishop Anthony Rudd, who created the Elizabethan Cloister Garden. Today, this Cloister Garden has been fully restored and is the only surviving example of its kind in the United Kingdom.
The Cloister Garden is Aberglasney’s “most extraordinary and legendary feature”, with a three-sided arched parapet walkway that’s excellent for nature enthusiasts to view the sweeping valley or to spot shrub roses. The archways are likewise perfect for children to play hide and seek, or for TV buffs to guess which parts were recently used in the filming of the hit show A Discovery of Witches.
From the walkway’s terrace, the Upper Walled Garden can be seen. It was designed by historian and garden designer Penelope Hobhouse, and its intricate and circular layout is a photographer’s paradise. From the right angle, the camera will capture the houses’ façade with layers of flowers fronting it. Book lovers will adore the entrance to the walled garden, as it’s accessed through an oak and iron door that gives a very strong The Secret Garden vibe.
Named after the same bishop, the Bishop Rudd’s Walk begins over a romantic-looking bridge bordered by robust tree trunks and low-hanging branches. Planted to inspire visitors all year round, but especially abundant during spring and early summer, the lightly wooded zone has a selection of plants that rarely grow wild in the British Isles.
This step-free route is excellent for walkers, and across the bridge is the Summer Meadow with grasses and wildflowers. Along this walk, visitors will also discover a mini arboretum and the Asiatic Garden with plants originating from Asia, including azaleas and acers that display a vibrant array of autumnal shades.
After Bishop Rudd’s tenancy, various families acquired the manor house: one planted the phenomenal Yew Tunnel, and another gave the mansion its present façade, dating from the Regency and Victorian periods. The Yew Tunnel is next to a Victorian gatehouse and the North Lawn. Both celebrate a traditional Welsh springtime, displaying a sea of vibrant yellow daffodils. The Yew Tunnel is believed to have been planted by the Dyer Family in the 18th Century, and it looks like something out of a fairy-tale where witches or wizards would cast their spells!
The Grade-II-listed mansion has a classic Grecian design with cornices, a grand portico, and symmetrical bay windows. Inside this structure is the Ninfarium, which is by far the most unique aspect of the gardens. Children, especially, will be mesmerized by the Ninfarium, as its warm interior has many sub-tropical and exotic plants. Plus, the glass atrium lies above the ruined rooms of the mansion. Artists and photographers should venture here, as the mansion’s skeletal remains evoke a similar aesthetic to the remains of a medieval abbey.
Every year, the mansion holds arts and crafts exhibitions, including one by local artist Elaine Graham. This provides architecture lovers with the perfect opportunity to view the mansion’s interior.
The house overlooks the Cloister Garden, the Victorian stone gatehouse, and the Pool Garden. The latter was also used in the filming of A Discovery of Witches, and its pond was originally designed to breed or stock fish. It’s now purely decorative and makes for a wonderful vista as visitors enjoy a cuppa or locally sourced, homemade lunch in the tearooms. The afternoon tea and salads, with vegetables grown from Aberglasney’s Kitchen Garden, are particularly scrumptious. This Kitchen Garden can be explored by visitors!
During the summer there are the monthly Music in the Pool Garden events. These feature various acts including SAXPAX, a sax quartet playing jazz and classical music in June, and No Mean Biscuit, who’ll perform swing, Latin, and pop tunes in July. In August, Jimi Webb, known as Wales’s King of Swing, will entertain while guests enjoy a two-course dinner. Visitors can book these events on the Aberglasney Gardens website.
With all this going on, is it any wonder that the gardens are considered one of the finest in Wales and continue to inspire poets, photographers, and other creative personnel? But it doesn’t stop there, as the Alpinum Garden; the Pigeon House Wood, which is covered in deciduous trees; and the less formal area of the Stream Garden are also worth visiting. Last, but not least, is the Jubilee Woodland with its primulas, primroses, and Himalayan blue poppy. This is probably the most photographed area of the gardens.
The poet John Dyer described Aberglasney Gardens as “the pleasant dome”, and the Sunken Garden is the epitome of this, featuring a secluded seating area and a calming water fountain. This fountain was designed by William Pye, who is famous for his imaginative water sculptures.
If you’re looking for a horticultural weekend getaway, there are two 5* holiday cottages at Aberglasney Gardens. These were mentioned in The Daily Telegraph’s Great Garden Sleepover and are the perfect base for exploring the gardens and Carmarthenshire’s countryside, featuring the Brecon Beacons National Park, many castles, and nearby towns including Llandeilo, Laugharne, and Llanarthne.
How to get there
Aberglasney Gardens is situated near Llangathen village, which is just off the A40. The gardens are a five-minute drive from Llandeilo and 15 minutes from Carmarthen.
