The Pyrenees have long been seen as the ultimate motorcycle destination. At well over 400 kilometres from the Bay of Biscay to the Med, this natural barrier between France and Spain has some of the continent's best riding. Its culture and language are unique, its villages are medieval, and its mountains are intimidating. It’s almost nothing like the Spain we all know and love just below it.
Unlike the Alps, which are undoubtedly overrun in the summer, the Pyrenees always have a sense of discovery and, in glimpses, solitude. The roads here were not built for tourism, and instead slowly evolved from trade routes. They only later paved them to connect isolated mountain communities, and you can really feel this when riding through.
Planning your route
The classic run is from the Basque coast to Catalonia's Costa Brava, taking between five and seven days depending on your pace. Most riders aim for 250-350 kilometres daily, as this is enough to cover good ground without rushing past the scenery. Spring and autumn, as usual, are great times to travel as there are fewer crowds and you can enjoy being comfortable in a leather jacket without overheating.
Starting from Hondarribia on the Cantabrian coast means you start at sea level, heading to high mountain passes. The first day eases you in gently, climbing through Basque country towards Roncesvalles. This is the medieval pilgrimage stop where you'll first get a good feel for mountains' presence. This web offers a good route with breakdowns of staging points.
The legendary passes
Col du Tourmalet is perhaps the focal point of the Pyrenees. At well over 2,000 metres, it’s one of the higher paved passes in the range and, of course, a fixture of the Tour de France. The western approach climbs quite relentlessly through nineteen kilometres of switchbacks, which is slightly more relaxing on a motorbike than cycling. Unlike many other famous mountain roads, Tourmalet hasn't been sanitised. The surface can be rough in fact, with minimal barriers, and you're riding on your skill. It hits different.
Col d'Aubisque pairs well with Tourmalet as a figure-of-eight route. Where Tourmalet feels raw and exposed, Aubisque is more technical, with tighter corners and tekky elevation changes that require good concentration. The summit plateau opens onto views that explain why cyclists suffer here willingly.
Further east, the Val d'Aran is quite different. This Catalan valley is facing north into France, and this creates its own microclimate and culture. The roads here aren’t for the purpose of summitting, but instead follow rivers and thread through dense forests.
What to know
Accommodation around this region can range from basic roadside hotels to more boutique mountain lodges. You’ll have to book ahead, especially in summer, and prepare for weather that can change at the drop of a hat.
For Moto Routes in Spain, fuelling stations become sparse in mountain areas which is why many follow pre-made routes. Fill up in valley towns because running low on petrol halfway up a 20-kilometre climb is not fun.
