In the three years since its introduction, Oris’ popular Diver’s Sixty-Five line of vintage-inspired divers has earned near-universal praise in the watch world. It’s a difficult enough feat for a brand to create such a wide and varied lineup so quickly, but what has really set the Diver’s Sixty-Five apart from the pack is quality of all these different versions. There’s hardly an unattractive piece in the bunch, but if one had to choose Oris’ crown jewel it would be this: the limited edition, bronze-cased Carl Brashear Chronograph. Named in honor of the U.S. Navy’s first African American and first amputee saturation diver, the Carl Brashear honors this legacy with a number of subtle touches in a classic, attractive package.
The case of the Carl Brashear Chronograph is an immediate standout, thanks to the brilliant bronze treatment. The reddish bronze alloy used here, finished in a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, is chosen for its use in early diving equipment as well as its tendency to develop a striking blue-green patina over time. This patina buildup can become especially pronounced on the raised and recessed surfaces of the rotating dive bezel, creating unique highlights and lowlights as the watch ages. If patina isn’t your thing, however, this buildup is easily removed with no ill effects to the case.
The overall shape here is shared with the 42 millimeter Diver’s Sixty-Five, a handsome combination of sporty, angular lugs and a narrow ‘60s-inflected bezel. For the Carl Brashear, however, the package is up-sized slightly to 43 millimeters in diameter for maximum wrist presence. Around back, the Carl Brashear pays tribute to its namesake with a custom engraved case back, featuring a saturation diving helmet and a quote from the man himself: “It’s not a sin to get knocked down. It’s a sin to stay down.” The water resistance rating of the case is on the light side for a modern diver at only 100 meters, but that still represents more than enough functionality for even casual SCUBA diving.
With a case as bold as the Carl Brashear’s, it’s easy to assume the dial would quietly fade into the background. Oris resolves this problem with a breathtaking navy blue dial arrangement that blends classic dive watch cues with brilliant bronze accents. In addition to the applied hour indices and the baton hands, the rims of the recessed chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock are edged with a bronze inlay for just the right amount of flash. At the heart of the Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph lies the Oris Calibre 771, a Sellita SW500-based automatic chronograph movement with some solidly impressive specs. Highlights include a 48 hour power reserve, 27 jewels and a smooth 28,800 bph sweep.
All of this is capped off with Oris’ signature red winding rotor. Oris pairs the Carl Brashear Chronograph with a rich tobacco brown distressed leather strap, finished with a matching signed, bronze buckle. While the water resistance of a leather strap on a dive watch has long been a point of contention among enthusiasts, it’s hard to argue with how attractive the pairing looks out of the water. After all, how often does a luxury dive watch actually get used for diving, anyway?
Oris sets themselves a difficult bar to clear with the rest of the excellent Diver’s Sixty-Five line, but it’s safe to say that the Carl Brashear clears it with flying colors. It’s quickly become the most desirable in a line of enthusiast darlings, and with a limited edition quickly running out now is the time to act if this stunning tribute calls to you.
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