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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Lucy Smith

The Ordinary has relaunched its divisive SPF, so I put it to the test

Fans of The Ordinary can breathe a collective sigh of relief because, after two years without a sun cream to its name, the brand has finally relaunched its face SPF in an ultralight serum.

For those who aren’t aware, The Ordinary launched a mineral (physical) SPF back in 2018 but users quickly found that the mineral component (zinc oxide) left a white cast on darker skin, and thus the product received a fair amount of backlash. Now though, the brand is hoping to make amends with the launch of a new chemical sunscreen, which uses five different types of organic UV filter to absorb the sun’s harmful rays.

The SPF uses glycerin to draw in hydration, promotes healthy skin with vitamin E, and maintains a supportive epidermal (the skin’s outermost layer) barrier with the help of two types of repairing lipid. With two years between the brand’s original SPF discontinuation and this new release, it’s clear The Ordinary went back to the drawing board for formula 2.0 – but was it worth it? See below for my in-depth review.

How I tested

I got ahold of The Ordinary's latest formula ahead of its market release (Lucy Smith)

I got my hands on The Ordinary’s SPF 45 serum nearly two weeks before its public launch (6 May) and swiftly put it to the test on bare skin and under make-up, as well as in both cloudy and full-sun conditions. As the product isn’t an SPF moisturiser, I applied it on top of my usual eye cream, moisturiser and serums, and when applying a full face of make-up, I used a primer afterwards.

During the testing period, I paid close attention to the consistency of the serum upon application (did it pill or feel granular?) and noted the formula’s finish both immediately and as the day wore on. When applying subsequent cream/liquid complexion products, I also looked out for any textural issues (streaking or sinking into pores). Here’s how I got on.

Why you can trust IndyBest reviews

As someone who’s been covering skincare (including SPF) since 2020, I’m well-versed in the formulas that are (and aren’t) worth investing in. In terms of face sunscreens specifically, I’ve curated an in-depth guide to the best SPF moisturisers and have reviewed individual formulas from Supergoop!, Thank You Farmer and more. As for The Ordinary, IndyBest readers are big fans of the brand and, as such, I’ve tested a whole host of its products – from the multi-active delivery essence to the hydrate and brighten gift set. Now, I’m putting The Ordinary’s SPF 45 through its paces – scroll to find out my honest verdict.

The Ordinary UV filters SPF 45 serum

The formula

As a brand renowned for its no-nonsense formulas, you’re not going to find a plethora of fancy essential oils and rose/geranium scents here – but you will see effective skin nourishment and protection. In The Ordinary’s SPF serum, this nourishment comes in the form of lipids, while protection is afforded by P-anisic acid, an anise-derived ingredient that gently soothes.

The new chemical variation of the SPF is notably more minimalist than the original, with a total of 25 ingredients compared to its predecessor’s 86. While the new product ditches five plant extracts, plus the fatty acids, amino acids and hyaluronic acid which featured in the physical SPF, it also avoids no less than four preservatives and eight texture enhancers – components often associated with increased skin sensitivity.

(Left) while and (right) after applying the SPF serum (Lucy Smith)

When it comes to texture, the serum is akin to a skin veil, feeling lightweight and nigh on undetectable. Plus, you’ll get an extra 10ml of product versus the cream formula, though it is a little more expensive.

In terms of sun protection, The Ordinary’s serum offers protection against both UVA and UVB rays, as well as a factor of 45. Confused by the numbers found on SPF? Essentially, this means that if you could stay in the sun for 10 minutes unprotected without burning, SPF 45 would in theory give you 45 times that protection, or seven-and-a-half hours before you would burn. That being said, it’s generally advised that you reapply sunscreen on skin exposed to UVA and UVB every two hours.

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Performance

As someone who’s tested a every type of SPF stick, serum, cream and powder, it’s easy to become a bit blasé and dismissive of new formulas. But, after testing The Ordinary’s, it’s clear that the brand has bucked the curve.

Often, the term ‘affordable SPF’ can go hand-in-hand with words like sticky, heavy and cloying. But, this couldn’t be less true of The Ordinary’s SPF 45, which has a comfortable gel-like feel. After applying, you’ll have to wait less than a minute before the serum has permeated your skin and leaves a flattering dewy sheen in its wake.

(Left) Just my skincare, finished with the SPF serum, (middle) with a full face of make-up on top and (right) after a full day's wear (Lucy Smith)

It doesn’t pill or leave make-up looking patchy. In fact, I loved how it helped to give my day-to-day foundation a seamless, satin-like finish. I didn’t develop any unwanted shine as the day wore on (something my oily skin is prone to) and, while my blush and bronzer faded, the SPF gave my primer an extra foundation-securing boost with my redness and textural inconsistencies under wraps.

I was pleased to discover that the excess product on my hands withstood a single handwash and, while the formula might not be fit for a poolside getaway, its mild water resistance is reassuring nonetheless. Regarding the amount of SPF required for adequate protection, I followed Zelens founder Dr. Marko Lens’ advice of one teaspoon’s worth for the face and neck, and dragged any excess down onto my décolletage.

Buy now £15.80, Theordinary.com

The verdict: The Ordinary SPF 45 face serum

While The Ordinary’s first foray with sun protection proved unpopular, the same cannot be said for its second attempt. The SPF 45 serum is featherlight, leaves a lit-from-within glow and pairs perfectly with all your usual make-up creams and powders. It’s appropriately priced – albeit £5 more expensive than its predecessor – and suitable for nearly every type of complexion. Has it made its way into my day-to-day skincare arsenal? Absolutely.

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