While I love a statement lip or flawlessly executed smoky eye as much as the next human being, it has been the pursuit of that timeless breed of stealthy, intelligent, undercover, your-skin-but-better beauty which stole my heart (and subsequently hours of my time), when I entered the beauty industry more than a decade and a half ago.
Known as no-makeup-makeup, this movement seeks radiance without obvious trace of product, celebrates skin’s natural texture, individuality and discrepancies, and suggests ( to the untrained eye at least), that you woke up like this; polished, but effortlessly so, glowing but not glittering, radiant but we’re not quite sure how.
In a new era where authenticity appears to be currency - hooray - this approach, long loved by makeup artists, models, beauty editors and those in the know, is making its way steadily and surely into the mainstream, and even onto the red carpets.
Take, for example, Sophia Richie’s makeup look at the Met Gala earlier this month. Yes her sleek, white Tommy Hilfiger dress was sensational, but it was her beauty look - an elevated and flawlessly executed take on the no-makeup-makeup look that immediately caught my eye. Gosh it was good.
Needless to say there was only one thing for it: I had to get in touch Sophia’s makeup artist that day to find out exactly how we can all work this one better. And so I did…
Here A-list makeup artist Francesca Abrahamovitch, loved by the likes of Victoria Beckham, Rosie Huntington Whitely, Maya Jama, Rochelle Humes, and of course Sophia Richie, reveals exactly how to up your game at home.
1) SKIN PREP IS KEY
“Great makeup starts with great skin prep. Take the time to moisturise, hydrate and wake up the skin before makeup application. This means you will need less product, while the makeup will look and last better on your skin. I love Augustinus Bader The Cream, from £77 and The Eye Cream, £160 (augustinusbader.com) They plump and hydrate the skin and provide a beautiful base for makeup. Consider icing the face first to reduce puffiness, boost circulation and lift and tighten the face.
2) LESS IS MORE WHEN IT COMES TO BASE
Apply thin, light layers of makeup and build only on the areas necessary. This will keep skin looking like skin, while allowing you to achieve flawless coverage. I love the Victoria Beckham Beauty Concealer Pen, £64 (victoriabeckhambeauty.com) for effortless, elevated skin as you can layer without it getting cakey and it looks so radiant. Clé du Peau Concealer, £59 at cultbeauty.co.uk is also amazing if you want a little more coverage.
3) PICK CREAM PRODUCTS OVER POWDER
Cream products look more natural on the skin, helping you to achieve that radiant, effortless look. Cream bronzer, blush and highlighter melt together seamlessly so that they just look like your skin, but better. I’m loving Chanel Les Beiges Cream Bronzer, £50 (chanel.com), Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Liquid Blush, £22 at sephora.co.uk and Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlighter Stick, £44 at spacenk.com for glow.
4) BLENDING IS KEY
The key to mastering effortless, elevated makeup is making it look like you aren’t wearing that much, even when you are. This is where blending comes in. You don’t want to see any harsh lines or heaviness, so good quality brushes are important. I love the new Victoria Beckham beauty brushes, the quality is amazing and they really help you achieve a flawless finish. Real Techniques are also a favourite of mine.
5) DON’T OVERLOOK THE POWER OF THE BROW
Brows add essential structure and dimension to our faces. A good strong brow is also very youthful, but it must look natural. I use a soft powder first to fill in any gaps, Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powders, £22 (anastasiabeverleyhils.co.uk) are amazing. I then go over with a clear or lightly tinted brow gel to give texture and a natural finish. Refy Brow Sculpt Gel, £18 (refybeauty.com) is one of my favourites.
6) CURL CURL CURL
Lash curling is often overlooked, especially when we are in a rush, but it is key for this look, as you want your lashes to look as long and lifted as possible without overloading them with mascara. Curling also makes your eyes look instantly awake. I use the Surrat Eyelash Curlers, £32 at cultbeauty.co.uk
7) PICK TONES THAT COMPLIMENT EACH OTHER
You want your make-up to look effortless, so I really like to do a similar tone on the eyes, lips and cheeks. Monochromatic makeup rarely looks too much.
8) THROW AWAY YOUR LARGE POWDER BRUSHES
To keep the skin looking radiant and effortless it must look like skin, rather than being too flat or over-powdered. Opt for a smaller, more precise powder brush so you only apply to the areas that really need it. The small end of the number 13 sculpt and blend brush from Victoria Beckham Beauty, £59 (victoriabeckhambeauty.com) is perfect for this.
9) BALMS WORK BEST
For this look, I tend to reach for balms over matte or super glossy finishes as I feel it gives a more natural effortless vibe to the make up. They are also very low maintenance which is always a win. I love the YSL Beauty LoveShine Candy Glaze, £36 (yslbeauty.co.uk) and the Dior Lip Glow, £33 (dior.com) . They give such beautiful tints to the lips and are nourishing ,while looking and feeling fresh and natural.
10) LOCK IN THE LOOK
I love to use a setting spray once I have finished makeup on my clients as I feel it holds the make up in place and helps it look fresher for longer so there is less need for touchups or powder. I am currently using ONE/SIZE On 'Til Dawn Mattifying Waterproof Setting Spray, £30 at sephora.co.uk
