In a world of express menus and desk-based lunches, an afternoon tea represents a defiant act of leisure, a deliberately slow unfurling of culinary joys over a couple of hours, starting with sandwiches, moving onto scones, followed by pastries and cakes, set on a linen tablecloth.
Champagne is an optional – if popular – extra these days, but it is still about the tea, always loose leaf, served in a pot with a strainer, with more hot water to replenish.
In the shadow of Buckingham Palace, the Goring is still family-owned and its afternoon tea can take place in the hotel garden in good weather.
On weekdays, there’s only one sitting (from 3.30pm to 4.30pm) but the scones and setting conspire to make it one of London’s most charming and memorable venues (and, should you fail to finish the cakes, the hotel will parcel them up for you to take home). From £49pp.
In London, The Ritz is still the most famous location to take afternoon tea; there are over 18 different types of tea to choose from, sandwiches are replenished and, after the scones, cakes are served from a trolley. Trimmings include pianists and palm trees. Breaking with tradition, however, the hotel starts serving tea at 11.30am and continues into the evening. From £57pp.
A few doors down from the Ritz, the Wolseley’s afternoon tea is very good value for London. It is imbued with classic charm, with a good supply of sandwiches.
Cakes usually include the pink and yellow, marzipan-encased Battenberg while the dome on the top layer of the cake stand reveals freshly baked scones. For those who aren’t so hungry, this is a good place to mix and match with cream teas (which just have the scones). From £29.75pp.
Backing onto the Thames, the Savoy will be digging deep into its archives in May for its afternoon tea. To commemorate the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, the Royal Afternoon tea will feature a chocolate ganache cake that’s a particular favourite of the Queen, plus strawberry tartlets and also showcases the Battenberg cake. There’s also a special tea, a blend of Darjeeling and Malawian tea, that helps support the RAF charity Wings Appeal and there’s also Rathfinny sparkling wine from Sussex. From £68pp.
The cake stand is abandoned in favour of a specially designed tea service but apart from this, Claridge’s in Mayfair stays true to essentials. Musicians continue to provide a gentle soundtrack in the Art Deco Foyer designed by Thierry Despont. The scones come with a specially created tea jelly, the finger sandwiches include smoked salmon from the Servern & Wye rivers – and there’s an added bonus of cheese sable biscuits. From £60pp
