The final episode of Man Men airs on Thursday night. And, once most men have dried their tears of compassion for the end of the journey for TV’s own Odysseus – AKA Don Draper – they will be wondering about the suit types worn by the different characters. Of course, the entire series spanned a decade, so looks and styles varied. But while Roger Sterling’s style evolved, he was forever a rake, and never more so than the last series, set in 1970. You can’t underestimate the Mad Men effect – between 1998 and 2014, sales in suits doubled in the US, and the bespoke pieces, created by costume designer Janie Bryant, had a domino effect on the industry. Here are five looks from the last series that will soon be gone from the Sterling Cooper advertising agency, but must not be forgotten.
The style plate: Michael Ginsberg
If Vogue for men had existed in the 70s, Ginsberg is the kind of guy who would have read it. He loves fashion and wants to make a statement with clothes. Print and colour aren’t things to hide from, they are standard elements of his wardrobe – as, indeed, are accessories such as toggles. He is a neurotic in personality, but an extrovert in style.
The traditionalist: Don Draper
Since Mad Men began seven seasons ago, Don Draper’s world has dramatically altered around him. Ever the everyman, though, he has – outwardly at least – largely stayed the same. The sports jacket, the tie, the straight trousers, the Brylcreemed hair. Here is a man who, when it comes to style, knows what he likes and sticks with it. All the better for everything else around him to slowly fall apart.
The old soul: Pete Campbell
Most fashion-literate viewers of Mad Men will know that Pete Campbell’s pyjamas are his sartorial triumph. But, as an account man, he is most often found in a suit, charming – or at least attempting to charm – new business. He does this by sticking to the kind of tailoring that causes the least offence: slightly old-fashioned, very done-up suits, often with a waistcoat. The effect? The baby-faced Campbell looks old before his time.
The rake: Roger Sterling
At his heart, Roger Sterling is all about the lols. He would rather skip the high-powered meeting in preference for a stolen afternoon drinking cocktails, or even a spot of LSD. His style reflects this – it’s about fun, but in a sort of jet-set, at-the-country-club way. Hence the three-piece grey suits of previous series, or checked sports jacket and chinos of the most recent. Smart, yes, but ready to blend into any situation that Mr Sterling finds himself in.
The rebel: Stan Rizzo
Mad Men acknowledges that the 70s mark the beginnings of the more casual clothes that people in contemporary advertising agencies might wear. Stan Rizzo – unapologetically unsuited – stands for youth and creativity at Sterling Cooper. It’s the beard, the Easy Rider jacket and the cravat. In the world of Mad Men, he is the future.
• This gallery was amended on 22 May 2015. It originally featured a second picture of Pete Campbell in the section about Roger Sterling.
