The thing about Naples is that its unrelenting chaos should be draining, but it’s somehow energising. This is a city that almost visibly buzzes with a chorus of crowds, car horns and Vespa engines, suspended between 175 miles of Greek and Roman tunnels snaking below and the majestic, vaguely menacing backdrop of Mount Vesuvius above.
To walk the city’s labyrinthine streets and taste its intense, bright flavours is a soul-stirring experience. When it comes to a place to stay, you need somewhere that feels like a sanctuary but not disconnected from all that chaotic energy. Romeo Napoli is one such spot.
The hotel embodies the paradox of modern Naples: a glitzy five-star design landmark wrought in high-tech glass and steel in the midst of the city’s slightly gritty cruise ship and ferry port. The building was historically the headquarters of the Lauro shipping company, but it was redeveloped by architect Kenzō Tange and opened as a hotel in 2008.
Inside, the open-plan ground floor could serve as a gallery, with pieces drawn from the owner’s eclectic collection ranging from art by Marc Chagall to vintage Hermès picnic chairs. A thread that runs through it all is depictions of Vesuvius, reimagined here by Andy Warhol, Mario Schifano and a handful of Neapolitan artists including Francesco Clemente.
There’s no beating a view of the real thing, of course, and Romeo Napoli has them in abundance. The best of the hotel’s 77 rooms and suites, located on the upper floor, have volcano views that elevate the interiors, which centre on statement striped wood and slatted blinds. The decor is ever so slightly naff, but it’s somehow charming too, and the beds are heavenly. The outlook from the other side of the hotel is less appealing and some rooms are on the more compact end of the spectrum, so are best suited to those who want to get out and about during their Naples stay.
But it’s worth lingering at Romeo for various reasons. The first is breakfast, which is served in the hotel’s Michelin-starred ninth floor Alain Ducasse restaurant, which has commanding views of the Gulf of Naples. Pristine white tablecloths make this feel a very long way from your average slowly congealing hotel breakfast buffet, as do delicate plates of granola and tiny wild strawberries, followed by smoked salmon with freshly made blinis.
There’s a huge subterranean Sisley spa and gym, if that’s your beat. Otherwise, zoom up to the recently unveiled rooftop pool. Here, there’s a glitzy Krug bar and terrace that makes for great people watching, not to mention the double whammy views of Vesuvius to the left and Capri glinting to the distant right.
Perhaps the most compelling reason to stay, however, is dinner at Il Ristorante Alain Ducasse. It seems odd, at first, to have a French chef commanding Michelin-starred food in the heart of Naples, where tradition and simplicity reign. But a commitment to ingredients from the Campania region help it to feel authentic, while a little French flair produces undeniably impressive results. On my visit, just-baked potato focaccia, fresh tomato fusilli casarecci cooked tableside and lamb with implausibly aromatic green herbs are among the most memorable dishes.
The warmth of the team prevents any potential stuffiness too. This is a soulful, special place to eat. And if you listen carefully enough, you can still hear the hum of Naples emanating from nine floors below.
From around £500 per night, theromeocollection.com
