Beneath the foothills of the soaring Andes is a vine-clustered valley where you can gaze up, local drop in hand, at the countless stars glimmering jewel-like against the sky’s velvety blackness.
Chile’s Elqui Valley, 400km north of the capital city of Santiago, is unique. The warm, dry climate and cloud-free nights make it the world’s best place to stargaze - and that’s official. This was the first site to be declared an International Dark Sky Sanctuary by the International Dark-Sky Association, and by 2020, the region is expected to host 70% of earth’s astronomy infrastructure.
The Elqui Observatorio has four astrophotographic systems, composed of high quality telescopes; Astro mount - Physic; frontline CCD camera; and workstation with preconfigured computing, housed in an individual and isolated dome.
Long before the scientists moved in, however, the valley was loved by farmers for all the same reasons. Its reliable weather led to the valley becoming the centre of production for Chile’s most famous export, the grape brandy known as pisco.
As a perfect destination for astro-tourists, the Elqui Valley is only rivalled by the vast and arid plains of the Atacama Desert, a short flight away and enjoying the same dry, warm climate. Here, eerie salt flats are dotted with lagoons where shocking-pink flamingos flock to drink, painted valleys reveal the vivid minerals that stain the earth, and otherworldly bubbling geysers vie for attention with ancient rock art - and at night, you can watch the stars wheeling overhead. Combine both destinations in your trip and enjoy an awe-inspiring astro adventure.
Valley of vineyards
Elqui’s vineyards sit up to 6550ft above sea level, which means that the warm days are followed by cool nights.
The Elqui Valley’s classic pisco destination is the little town of Pisco Elqui (yes, the clue’s in the name). Here, you can taste-test your way around excellent distilleries including Pisco Doña Josefa de Elqui, Pisco Capel and Fundo Los Nichos, which has been producing the spirit since 1868. You can’t leave Chile without trying a pisco sour, the zinging fresh cocktail that’s the country’s specialty.
Johner Bildbyra AB +46 8 644 83 30 info@johner.se sales@johner.se Photograph: Johner Images/Getty Images/Johner RF
The Elqui Valley is a wine region centered on Elqui River in northern Chile.
But it’s not all about pisco; the Elqui Valley is justly famed for its wines. The innovative Viñedos de Alcohuaz is one of the highest altitude commercial vineyards in the world, at 2200m, and produces beautifully balanced local wines using organic, biodynamic methods - including the ancient technique of treading the grapes. Or visit the Cavas del Valle vineyard, a boutique, organic operation where the passionate owners will talk you through their production methods and let you taste the results.
More of a beer drinker? Try the craft brewery Cervecería Guayacán in Diaguitas, complete with pleasant beer garden.
See the stars in their millions
The Elqui Valley comes alive once the sun goes down, when brilliant stars cluster thickly in the night sky. Get closer to the heavens with a trip to one of the observatories that stud the hills of the region. Observatorio Mamalluca and Observatorio del Pangue have enormous telescopes that afford you the unparalleled experience of seeing Saturn’s rings and Jupiter’s moons with your own eyes.
Eat the rainbow
As you’d expect from an agricultural paradise, the fresh produce in the Elqui Valley is delicious and widely available. Taking advantage of the region’s 320 days of sunshine a year, Delicias del Sol Villaseca is a restaurant run by local women who cook using solar-powered ovens.
Get a culture fix
The valley town of Vicuña houses the Gabriela Mistral Museum, which was built on the site of the Nobel Prize-winning poet’s birthplace. Culture of another kind grew up in the valley in the 1970s, when it was put on the hippie trail with the arrival of Tibetan monks. Soak in the good vibes at one of the yoga, meditation and healing centres scattered throughout the valley.
See the stars in their millions
The Elqui Valley comes alive once the sun goes down, when brilliant stars cluster thickly in the night sky. Get closer to the heavens with a trip to one of the observatories that stud the hills of the region. Observatorio Mamalluca and Observatorio del Pangue have enormous telescopes that afford you the unparalleled experience of seeing Saturn’s rings and Jupiter’s moons with your own eyes.
Lose yourself in the desert night of Atacama Desert
The Observatorio del Pangue is located 17km south of Vicuña.
Time to leave the green valley behind and head for the rolling expanses of the Atacama Desert. It’s an ideal second stop-off for stargazers, adventure chasers and landscape lovers. One of the driest places in the world, it’s overflowing with ancient culture, dramatic scenery and enticing activities.
The desert is home to the ALMA (Atacama Large Millimetre/submillimetre Array) observatory, the world’s most expensive land telescope, which offers free daytime tours at weekends. But your best bet to see the stars in all their nocturnal glory is to take a tour from the charming village of San Pedro de Atacama, all adobe houses and little churches. Atacama Desert Stargazing is a local operation.
Get active
During the day, get your nature fix by hiking the Atacama Desert’s Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) or Valle Arcoiris (Rainbow Valley), whose vivid colours make this a perfect spot to watch the ever-changing light of a desert sunset. You can sandboard down the steep slopes of the Valle de la Muerte (Valley of the Dead), and explore Salar de Atacama, the world’s largest salt flat, where pools of still water reflect the Andes mountains. Heading to the El Tatio Geysers for sunrise is an extraordinary experience, with jets of steam spouting into the air from the volcanic field.
Explore the past
The petroglyphs at Yerbas Buenas allow you to delve into the desert’s deep past, through figures etched onto rock walls by the Atacameño people many thousands of years ago. The desert is home to plenty more fascinating archaeological sites, including the 12th-century walled city of Pukará de Quitor, which was so solidly built that it withstood the invading Spanish conquistadors for a staggering 20 years.
Just a 13-hour flight from Australia, the colourful history, vibrant culture and dramatic scenery of Chile’s richest valley and most scenic desert make them a richly rewarding pair of destinations. For more information, go to www.chile.travel/en.
