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The Independent UK

Ellie Ross

The Headland, Cornwall, hotel review

Cornwall Adam Handling the Second World War

This grande dame hotel is legendary in Newquay, having occupied its very own headland beside Fistral Beach for 125 years. It balances heritage with modernity, along with superb wellness offerings and dining overlooking a view that never gets old

Location

Architect Silvanus Travail chose a stellar spot for his statement hotel, which opened in 1900. Standing in solitude on Towan Headland, it overlooks the wild Atlantic, with the surfing hotspot of Fistral Beach right beside it (though neighbouring Little Fistral is a quieter, more secret option at low tide). Guests can step outside straight onto the South West Coast Path for a hike, while golfers are a short walk from Newquay’s 18-hole course.

The vibe

This Grade II-listed building is packed with Victorian elegance, from terracotta turrets and high ceilings to marble columns, dark wood furnishings and an imperial staircase. Heritage areas, including The Ballroom, have been given a contemporary flourish with floral prints in valance curtains and velvet sofas jazzed up with orange and mustard cushions. In summer, guests sip cocktails on the verandah, while two traditional fires keep things cosy in winter. Halloween stretches beyond mere pumpkin decorations, with witch-themed afternoon teas an annual reminder that the hotel was the filming location for The Witches. Spooks extend to the hotel’s history – it served as a RAF hospital during the Second World War, and ghostly nurses are said to roam the basement.

Velvet sofas line The Ballroom at The Headland (The Headland/Yeah Mike)

Service

Staff aren’t overly formal, which adds to the relaxed feel. Although at times during our stay, it was possibly too relaxed. But when help is needed – like booking taxis, or extra cutlery – nothing seems like too much trouble.

Bed and bath

All 86 hotel rooms are classically-styled, with neutral walls, printed headboards, sash windows and bathrooms with Molton Brown products. The colour palette has a blue bias, but never feels like a hackneyed nautical theme. Cosy Rooms are the only category with no sea view (or glimpse), though they are still a decent size with sofas and walk-in showers. For decadence, go for the Best Room and Suites category – some have four-poster beds and sea-view balconies, and others are big enough for a bridal party or family.

Sash windows and printed headboards can be found in rooms at The Headland (The Headland)

Food and drink

RenMor is the recently-refurbished main restaurant and bar. Featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, it is a light and modern space, with parquet wood flooring, a central bar and emerald-green seating and tiling. Relaxed breakfasts – buffet continental or cooked-to-order – are eaten here but it’s at dinner where this space really comes to life, with locals and hotel guests dipping into a seasonal menu that has a seafood slant.

The Deck restaurant in the Aqua Club serves Mediterranean fare, like pizzas and pasta, while the Spa Lounge sees guests don robes and indulge in afternoon tea or superfood smoothies between treatments.

For foodies, a meal at chef Adam Handling’s newly-opened Ugly Butterfly 2.0, downstairs in the hotel, is a must (The Ugly Butterfly Stay includes a four-course dinner). Highlights of his menu include lobster cured in wagyu fat (tastes so much better than it sounds). Guests keen to sample Handling’s signature cheese donuts for a lower price can also visit his country pub, The Tartan Fox, eight miles away.

Floor to ceiling windows allow you to enjoy coastal views whilst dining at RenMor (The Headland/Rob James)

Facilities

The adults-only spa offers a pool, steam room and sauna, plus treatments like the Headland Wave Ritual – a soothing combination of scrubbing, hot stone massage and a mini Elemis facial (85 minutes; £160). The Aqua Club is a separate facility with six indoor and outdoor pools (including a child-friendly splash pool and an adults-only hot tub), sauna and sun terrace.

The Aqua Club has six indoor and outdoor pools (The Headland)

Pet policy

All rooms are dog-friendly (£33 per night, per dog; maximum of two dogs). Dogs are allowed throughout the hotel except in the spa, Aqua Club or on the carpet sections of RenMor.

Check in/check out

Check in from 3pm; check out by 11am.

Family-friendly?

Very. Some rooms accommodate cots and fold-away beds, and interconnecting rooms are available. For more freedom, self-catering cottages sleep up to six guests (in one, two or three bedrooms). Children’s menus are available in RenMor.