Madeira, the Portuguese island archipelago off the coast of Africa, is a haven for foodies. The locals manage to cultivate an abundance of fruit and vegetables on the steep terraced fields of this volcanic island. This burst of colour and flavour (think yams, mangoes, guavas and sweet potatoes) end up piled high in coarsely woven baskets on the tables of the indoor market in the capital Funchal, or sliced and dressed on the plates of friendly local restaurants. Fresh fish abounds, towering in silvery slippery mounds in the market or grilled, barbecued or fried for your lunch. Cubed, marinated beef is skewered and slow cooked, while delicious flaky pastries and cakes are conjured up with the local sugarcane honey. And then, of course, there’s the sweet, potent Madeira wine to enjoy from dusty bottles stamped with the year of your birth.
If you’ve eaten in Portugal you will feel the influence in the cuisine here – grilled fish, salt cod stews and rich tomato sauces – but there are specialities that are uniquely Madeiran. Those skewers of meat are called espetada, and you will find them on the menus of almost every restaurant on the island, sometimes with variations that include scallops and bacon or king prawns. The skewer is often served hanging above your plate or sometimes the metal skewer is switched for laurel or bay sticks to infuse extra flavour. Try O Lagar, a short drive out of Funchal, for a truly authentic experience. Here they serve the espetada with another local speciality called milho frito, which is made from maize flour like polenta and fried in cubes.
Not to be confused with espetada, is espada – the local black scabbard, which is often served as espada com banana. This is a delicious dish of fried breaded fish fillets served with halved bananas fried in the same oil. Other popular fish are tuna, spearfish and marlin. You might find limpets served as appetisers, known locally as lapas, or perhaps periwinkles (pervincas) or even snails (caramujos), they are all usually tossed in olive oil, doused in lemon juice and eaten from their shells. Madeira also has its own version of the Spanish paella called arroz de marisco, which is a delicious, soupy rice and seafood dish. A good place to try some of these dishes is Vila do Peixe, one of the island’s finest exponents of homely Madeiran cuisine – and a restaurant with one of its finest views. Arrive hungry because their portions are massive, or if you’re in Funchal the Beerhouse by the marina offers great local meals and an excellent Madeira-brewed draught.
If you find yourself in need of a snack while driving through the dramatic landscape, then look out for roadside stalls selling circular flat patties called bolo de caco. Made with sweet potato and flour and baked in a stone oven these are delicious cut open and slathered with garlic or herb butter. Just right to fill a gap. You might also find them served up with your espetada.
Madeirans always find time for coffee and cake, and you can pop into one of the many pastelarias (patisserie) to sample queijada – the Madeiran take on cheesecake – or buy a honey cake (bolo de mel) to take home. Madeira used to be a major sugar producer and the sweet tooth has remained. You can’t pass a restaurant or cafe without spotting a tempting array of sweet treats. If you’re based in Funchal, then head to A Confeitaria, which has a local reputation for serving some of the best coffee and has a dizzying choice of cakes and pastries.
If you’ve never tried Madeira wine then you are in for a treat during your visit to the region. Although often compared to sherry it is created by a unique process involving repeated cycles of heating the wine and is the only wine in the world oxidised on purpose to achieve a deep brown color and burnt sugar richness.
The story goes that in the 17th-century ships stocked up on the dry white wine in Madeira before making the long journey across the Atlantic to the Americas. In the holds of the ships the wooden barrels were rolled and warmed as they entered the tropics and the wine became sweeter and more palatable. This “sea-aging” is now mimicked by either artificially heating the wine or leaving it to age in the sun – after a drop or two of brandy has been added to fortify it.
The result is a wine with deep flavours of roasted nuts, caramel, and stewed fruits. Dry Madeira wine is served as an aperitif, while the sweet rich ones are served as dessert wines. You can buy either a cheap blended wine, which is often used in cooking sauces or for desserts such as trifle, or you could opt for a higher quality 20-year-old bottle single-varietal. There are four varieties; the dry Sercial, the medium dry Verdelho, the medium sweet Bual, and the sweet Malmsey. If you want to find out more and taste some different vintages, then pay a visit to the 200-year-old Blandy’s Wine Lodge in Funchal, which offers comprehensive tours and tastings.
Book your Madeira Holiday with British Airways
Return flights from London Gatwick to Madeira and 7 nights hotel accommodation for £259pp. Book by 31 March at ba.com/madeira. British Airways Holidays standard terms and conditions and conditions of carriage apply. For full terms and conditions please refer to ba.com
