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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

The fisher king

Ardent gastro-tourists will no doubt already be familiar with the Flemish coast, boasting as it does a delicious array of destination restaurants. This 40-mile stretch of golden coastline is a genuine foodie paradise – particularly, as you'd expect, for seafood lovers.

Each of the 13 different resorts along the coast has its own unique style and character. Within hours you can move from the atmosphere of a traditional fishing village to one of Riveria-esque glamour. And thanks to a handy tram service conveniently linking all the resorts, it's easy to spend a week meandering your way through a variety of food experiences; from Michelin-starred luxury in Knokke-Heist to rustic harbourside snacking in Ostend.

The coast is central to the seafood industry – and has been for centuries. In fact, Oostduinkerke is one of the few sites left in Europe where you can still witness horseback shrimping, a 500-year-old method of catching shrimp on horseback. Fish sold at the main market in Ostend is as fresh as you'll ever find and, with only boats based in the harbour allowed to sell at the market, everything you buy here can be traced back to the fisherman who caught it.

So why has this location become such an important fishing harbour, supplying fresh fish to customers across Belgium and beyond? Dirk Casteleyn, owner of successful fish restaurant Beluga, believes the sea is the key, "It's the cold water that makes the fish such high quality here. Fish grow too quickly in tropical waters so they fall apart in cooking. They grow slower in cold water and develop better. The texture is far superior."

Of the Belgian coast's many specialities, make sure you try the grey shrimp, famed for their delicate flavour and robust texture – most restaurants serve them fried in breadcrumbs, known as garnaalkroketten. And, of course, don't miss an opportunity to sample takeaway food Ostend-style at the stalls lining the harbourfront, selling every kind of fish imaginable from dried, salted whiting to rollmops filled with onions.

If you're looking to push the boat out with some Michelin-starred feasting, there are copious very fine examples in the region. Hostellerie Le Fox, in the elegantly refined resort of De Panne, has earned two Michelin stars for its modern twist on local favourites. The Michelin inspectors have also been busy in the super-chic resort of Knokke-Heist, awarding Jardin Tropical, Sel Gris and Bartholomeus a star apiece. All three display a deep understanding of how to handle seafood, with a thoroughly contemporary flair.

Treat yourself: €€€

Zeno
Housed in an elegant, high-ceilinged building and seating just 24, Zeno is truly something special. The seasonal menu changes every few weeks and consists of a trio of starters followed by seven stunningly original courses. Guests automatically receive the starters and can choose to have just some or all of the other courses, served with optional matching wines. Chef Reinout Reniere's love affair with food shines through in every dish. Every flavour and texture has been carefully considered and convention has been thrown out of the kitchen window to make way for surprising combinations such as oxtail with egg and pork served with celeriac and pickled onions.
53 Vlamingstraat, Bruges, restaurantzeno.be

Matty
At Matty the kitchen is in the dining room and the chef takes your order personally. The food is haute cuisine, and comes extremely slowly, but the sweet husband and wife team have created such a great atmosphere you don't mind waiting.
23 Brederodestraat, Antwerp; restaurantmatty.be

Beluga
Worth saving the euros for, this classically kitsch Flemish restaurant serves high-quality seafood. The specials change weekly and represent the best the North Sea has to offer.
33 Kemmelbergstraat, Ostend; beluga-oostende.be

Toi
Forget the budget and gaze out to sea while you feast on local shrimp, fresh-caught sole and fantastic steak in this laid-back but luxurious seaside restaurant.
68 Moi et la Mer, Promenade, Ostend

Au Petit Grand
A romantic restaurant offering excellent French food and an impressive wine list in a central location. The steak (€21) is highly recommended.
18 Philipstockstraat, Bruges; aupetitgrand.be

Lola
In uptown Brussels everyone can point you in the direction of Lola, a small-but-perfectly formed restaurant serving gorgeous modern Belgian cuisine. It's packed every night so book in advance.
33 Grote Zavel, Brussels; restolola.be

Won't break the bank: €€

Pakhuis
This huge, buzzing brasserie in the centre of town in a former warehouse has a great buzzy atmosphere. The broadly French-Italian menu also features plenty of delicious, unfussy Flemish specialities too; from oysters and maatjes (soused herring) to a great selection of Belgian beers. Everything is hearty and delicious, using seasonal, market-fresh and carefully sourced ingredients. The rich, juicy roast chicken with salad, oregano frites and mayonnaise tastes like chicken used to taste when you were little – that is, full of flavour. At around €40 per head for a three-course dinner, it's not bad value, either.
4 Schuurkenstraat, Ghent, pakhuis.be

Korenlei Twee
An upmarket restaurant in the centre of Ghent, this is one to visit for a long meal, since the chef is in no hurry. The food, with an emphasis on fish, is well worth the wait.
2 Korenlei, Ghent; korenleitwee.be

Magma
One of the hottest new restaurants in Antwerp serving delicious French and Belgian-inspired food, with an addictively good chocolate fondant on the menu. It's popular with Antwerp's young professionals, who fill the place after 8.30pm, before partying in one of the neighbourhood's bars.
16 Vlaamse Kaai, Antwerp

Le Vismet
Vismet is a sparkling modern restaurant that has the kind of buzz only really good restaurants have – and no wonder, it's a veritable heaven for fish-lovers. An open kitchen, minimalist yet cosy decor and immaculate serving staff get you in the mood for a proper culinary experience.
23 Place St Catherine, Brussels

Hungry Henrietta's
An ideal lunch stop in Antwerp's fashion district (it's closed on weekends, and lunch is popular, so book ahead), this relaxed family-run bistro has been a fashion favourite for years. The chic, healthy menu includes sea bass with beans, and lentil and bacon salad.
19 Lombardenvest, Antwerp; hungry-henrietta.be

Pieter Pourbus
This popular restaurant on a quiet Bruges backstreet offers three different fixed-price menus at €25, €30 and €43 in its cosy, candlelit interior.
1 Pieter Pourbusstraat, Bruges; pieterpourbus.com

Kokoon
A smart, modern interior and welcoming staff make Kokoon the place to hole up and gorge on a leisurely three-course lunch. It's all about nouvelle cuisine that looks as good as it tastes.
1 's-Meiersstraat, Leuven; kokoon.be

Improvisio
An interesting space which offers cosy corners as well as a vibrant main room, Impriviso does a reliable line in classic modern Belgian/French fare with especially irresistable frites.
63 Brusselsestraat, Leuven; brasserieimprovisio.be

Budget options: €

Urban chic in Flanders: Decoration in Cafe Nostradam in Mechelen

Nostradam
The kitsch, chintzy decor makes you feel like you've been invited round to your mad aunt's house for supper, but this cute little cafe-restaurant serves up really great food, with both Italian and Belgian food on the menu. A must-try is their delightful fish soup.
25 Blauwhondstraat, Mechelen; nostradam.be

t'Brugs Pitahui
This is a good choice for vegetarians, serving up falafel wrapped in pita both to take away or eat in. It's worth eating in for the delicious sauces served alongside.
35 Philipstockstraat, Bruges

Nicolas et Pimprenelle
Teeny-tiny but calm and cosy, this cafe-restaurant offers a choice of affordable Argentinian tapas dishes as well as a small but well-chosen menu of healthy organic main dishes.
4 Quai aux barques, Brussels

Le Pain Quotidien
If you just want to grab a snack for lunch, but don't want to compromise on quality, Le Pain Quotidien serves up great tartines and salads made with mostly organic ingredients.
Locations around Flanders; lepainquotidien.be

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