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The Independent UK

Daisy Lester

The Fife Arms, Scotland hotel review

Pablo Picasso Scotland Daisy Lester Queen Victoria Edinburgh

This eccentric Highlands hotel combines Scottish traditions, more than 16,000 pieces of art and a picture-perfect landscape for an immersive rural retreat

Daisy Lester

Location

Located in the village of Braemar, The Fife Arms is a two-hour drive from Edinburgh and Aberdeen. The village sits in the UK’s largest national park, Cairngorms – a hotspot for wild swimming and skiing at Glenshee, as well as hiking, mountain biking and climbing. Braemar Castle and the Highland Games Centre (the royal family have been attending annually since Queen Victoria’s time) are both a short walk from the hotel. The Fife Arms’ proximity to Balmoral is a big draw for guests, but equally for the royals themselves – King Charles opened the hotel in 2019 and there are whispers of his regular visits.

The vibe

The Fife Arms’ striking drawing room (The Fife Arms)

With two Picasso paintings, a sketch by Queen Victoria and a Brueghel the Younger, The Fife Arms feels part-museum, part-art gallery, but never stuffy. The public areas feature cosy nooks to read in, tweed walls and clashing curtains, roaring fires, plush sofas and frequent meetings with the hotel’s friendly labrador. A passion project of the two art dealers behind Hauser & Wirth, more than 16,000 artworks cover the hotel. The eclectic mix of modern and classical artwork is complete harmony. In the reception, a contemporary glass chandelier is designed to look like antlers and bag pipes, while a 19th century Robert Burns chimney mount has been painstakingly restored. A particularly rare late work by Picasso hangs below a contemporary fresco ceiling inspired by Scottish agates in the drawing room.

The Elsa Schiaparelli-inspired bar – the Italian fashion designer was a friend of the 16th Laird of the Invercauld Estate nearby – offers further immersion, with a giant disco ball, pink lighting and various Man Rays on the wall. Despite its pomp, the Fife Arms is anything but exclusionary – the joy of the hotel is that it’s open to everyone. Daily complimentary art tours are offered to both overnight and day guests, while the hotel’s Flying Stag pub is a haunt for locals – some of their portraits are even hanging on the wall.

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Service

The staff are the beating heart at the Fife Arms, from the ghillie guides who know the Cairngorms National Park like the back of their hand, to the locals who lead literary tours of the landscape that authors like Nan Shepherd were inspired by. Our hiking guide was a retired member of the community while our driver grew up in the village. From the restaurant waiters to the whisky bartenders, everyone is warm and welcoming. The hotel’s attention to detail also threads through the staff’s kitsch tweed uniforms.

Bed and bath

All 46 bedrooms are individually designed (The Fife Arms)

The 46 bedrooms are divided into four categories, inspired by Scottish art and history. All the rooms are unique, from a Treasure Island-themed room called Robert Louis Stevenson and the Fashionista room– complete with vintage Vogue covers and old perfume bottles – to the Lord Byron and Jacobite Rising rooms. The Royal and Victoriana categories are near museum-like in their replication of 19th century bedrooms, taking inspiration from visitors like Queen Victoria and the Duke of Fife, the Highland Games and even Victoria’s beloved border collie. The thought and detail that has gone into each room has been duly recognised with two Michelin Keys.

The rooms have all the necessary amenities – there’s a safe, bath powerful shower and toiletries from the hotel’s own beauty brand, Albamhor. Little luxuries include a complimentary mini bar with snacks from the local area – including from the Braemar Chocolate Shop just down the road – a bottle of champagne and negroni cocktail bottle. The addition of Fife Arms and Braemar postcards, a notepad, pencil and curated book selection are charming.

Food and drink

Bertie’s Whisky Bar houses more than 500 bottles of dram (The Fife Arms)

The Fife Arms boasts two restaurants and bars. The Flying Stag is a lively, traditional pub serving local ales, an extensive wine list, and hearty classics like pork and black pudding fritter, fish and chips or chicken schnitzel. It’s unpretentious and always busy with both locals and hotel guests. For a more refined experience, the Clunie Dining Room offers an a la carte or eight-course tasting menu using Scottish produce – standouts include the lobster ravioli, the buttery poached cod and the local venison. The Clunie also serves breakfast (don’t miss the smoked trout or ghillies breakfast) and Sunday lunch. Available to both day and overnight guests, afternoon tea – sitting below the Picasso, no less – is offered in the drawing room.

Elsa’s Bar reimagines classic cocktails with a creative twist – think coriander margaritas and pistachio cream grasshoppers for aperitifs or nightcaps. Bertie’s Whisky Bar, a moody speakeasy named after Queen Victoria’s son, showcases more than 500 bottles organised by flavour profile. As well as the Fife Arms’ new autumn whisky blend (£245, Thefifearms.com), brewed at the nearby Glen Garioch distillery, the shelves include a rare 1841 dram. Even whisky skeptics will find something to enjoy, thanks to the expert sommeliers.

Facilities

The Fife Arms’ spa has a Scandi, minimalist feel (The Fife Arms)

The Fife Arms’ spa is tucked away at the back of the historic building. With its wood walls, shearling throws, plants and jute furnishings, the serene space has a Scandi feel – but tartan bed throws and contemporary artworks chime with the rest of the hotel. From post-hike foot massages and facials to manicures, hot-stone and exfoliating massages, the varied treatment list covers every concern. A generously sized sauna is open to guests and looks out onto the garden.

Depending on your interests, there are almost endless activities on offer at The Fife Arms – think snow sports, whisky or wine tastings and visits to nearby distilleries in the winter, or e-biking, clay pigeon shooting, wild swimming, fishing and guided hiking in the spring and summertime (Barbour coats and wellies are provided, in true Scottish style). The concierge can arrange day trips to Balmoral, creative writing workshops, tennis and golf, or simply enjoy one of the daily complimentary art tours around the hotel.

Accessibility

Three of the Scottish Culture rooms are fully accessible, with wet-room bathrooms and emergency cords available. There are also lifts throughout the hotel, including the spa.

Pet policy

The hotel charges £25 per dog, per night. Any damage or disruption to other guests makes you liable to an extra charge.

Check-in/check-out?

Check-in from 3pm; check-out by 11am.

Family-friendly?

The Fife Arms welcomes children of all ages, with cots, extra beds or sofa beds arranged in certain rooms at an extra cost. Whether it’s art classes, foraging or hikes to spot wildlife, the concierge can arrange various family-friendly activities. There’s a treasure hunt children can enjoy around the hotel, as well as a family room with board games, books, table football, Xbox and more.