It is rather brave of Debenhams to host the latest show from site-specific specialists Grid Iron. For this promenade performance based on Jim Crace's novel is about our gargantuan appetites, our consuming desires, the way the devil has all the best titbits and, of course, the links between consumption and consumer durables.
At one point you see a fat, doughnut-gorging man wandering vacantly up the escalators, his eyes glazed with the excess of so much food and all those gleaming toasters. An orgy around the fondue offers not only cheesy lust but gives you an eyeful of a very fine array of Nigella Lawson cookware. It gives new meaning to the concept of product placement.
In fact, Nigella would be suggestively licking her fingers and lips in pleasure at this tapestry of delicate, twisted tales.
There is no through narrative, but rather a series of interludes that encompass botulism in the pastries, grief in the soup and loss and loneliness among the bread flour. Not since Grid Iron tackled Angela Carter more than a decade ago has it had a text so ripely suggestive and rich in metaphor, and if the shop floor sometimes seems a slightly sterile setting for some of these pungent stories, the backstairs areas serve very well for darker, more devilish, tales and is even brilliantly transformed into a hospital for a knobbly story of Jerusalem artichokes.
Like all of Grid Iron's work this is a total theatre experience. The fact that you have to walk around means that you take yourself to the performance as much as it comes to you. But director Ben Harrison knows how to draw us in. He envelops us with music, he leads us up and down the stairs of our own desires. It is a clever show, opening cans of worms as well as offering tender sweetmeats. Go on, treat yourself.
· Until August 28. Box office: 0131-228 1404.
