What do you know about the Dakotas? The answer, almost certainly, is more than you think. If you consider American images and stories you've absorbed since childhood, an impressive number hail from the twin states of North and South Dakota. The stony-faced presidents of Mount Rushmore; herds of bison rumbling across epic prairies; Laura Ingalls Wilder and her Little House on the Prairie; Wild Bill Hickok and wild-west saloons; cowboys and roundups; canyons and badlands. The Dakotas have the lot.
Yet they're rarely visited by Brits, possibly because we tend to stick to the edges of the US and these states really put the "mid" in midwest – the small burg of Rugby in North Dakota is the geographical centre of the continent of North America.
To grasp why this is such a compelling region to explore, it helps to understand what made the Dakotas. First, nature moulded the landscape: the endless prairies of the Great Plains, punctuated by sandstone badlands and the Black Hills' granite outcrops. Then these vistas were carved and sculpted by wind and water (not least the implacable Missouri river), bison and prairie dogs, creating terrain that begs to be discovered, on foot, by bike, paddling a canoe or even on horseback.
Finally, the people came: the Nakota, Lakota and, yes, Dakota Sioux roamed the plains for centuries before the arrival of early 19th-century explorers Lewis and Clark. They were followed by trappers and fur traders, railroads, pioneer farmers – even president-to-be and champion of national parks, Theodore Roosevelt. Their combined legacy is a heritage of fascinating frontier towns, lively historic cities and Native American reservations.
Bike among the bison
Take to two wheels to explore the spectacular rock formations of the badlands of North Dakota along the Maah Daah Hey Trail. At 96 miles (150km), it's reputedly the longest continuous single-track mountain-bike route in the US. Winding north from Sully Creek State Park through the Little Missouri National Grassland, it's a monumental journey, cycling through meadows with the badlands' rocky outcrops an ancient, looming presence in the background. Indeed, in the language of the indigenous Mandan people, the trail's name means "a place that has been and will exist for a long time". You might spot coyotes, mule deer, prairie dogs, golden eagles and bison en route. Escape Adventures (escapeadventures.com) organises five-day camping expeditions along the trail. Down in the south, the George S Mickelson Trail traverses the Black Hills, offering the chance for pedal-powered exploration.
Play cowboy in the wild west
South Dakota is the place to indulge cowboy fantasies – stetson, stirrups, steers and all. Deadwood, a gold-rush town in the Black Hills, ticks all the boxes. It's here that Wild Bill was gunned down during a poker game in 1876. He lies (alongside Calamity Jane) in the town's Mount Moriah cemetery: visit his monument before knocking back a cold brew at Saloon No 10 (saloon10.com). Then saddle up for range life: American Round-up (americanroundup.com) organises stays at the intimate Crow Creek Ranch, where horseriders are free to trot among cattle herds. In North Dakota, guided riders can meander the buttes and badland canyons in Theodore Roosevelt National Park (medora.com).
Kip under canvas among the wildlife
If you long for a home where the buffalo roam, South Dakota's Custer State Park is the place to pitch. This expanse of forest, granite pinnacles and open range hosts a herd of 1,300 bison and a spectacular buffalo roundup (27 September 2013). The mighty ruminants aren't the only attraction for nature lovers – you might also spot elk and deer, bighorn sheep, coyotes and mountain lions, plus more than 200 bird species. Camping spots range from meadows to well-organised sites with log cabins (gfp.sd.gov/state-parks/directory/custer/campgrounds). Pitch at Sylvan Lake for access to Harney Peak, at 2,208 metres the highest US summit east of the Rockies. In North Dakota, birdwatching is the big draw. Routes available from Birding Drives Dakota (birdingdrives.com) highlight the top spots in the central Prairie Pothole region.
Make a date with several presidents and a chief
South Dakota's most recognisable landmark is the quartet of national leaders emerging from the granite of Mount Rushmore. The 18-metre likenesses of Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt gaze imperiously over the Black Hills, making a monumental starting point for a historical expedition. Ten miles south-west of Rushmore is the Crazy Horse Memorial, a part-completed rock carving of the Oglala Lakota Sioux chief that will, when finished, be the world's largest sculpture, more than 171 metres high. For a flavour of Sioux culture, stay at Wakpamni (wakpamni.com), a farmhouse B&B: tours to nearby Pine Ridge Indian Reservation with a Lakota guide can be arranged, and the hosts can provide details of powwows. Continue the history trail in North Dakota by following in the footsteps of pioneers Lewis and Clark at Fort Mandan (fortmandan.com), a replica of the stockade built by the explorers in 1804.
Enjoy a two-state road trip
Jump in a car and follow the rectangular route formed by the main highways of North and South Dakota. Begin in Fargo, perhaps taking in a movie (the Coen Brothers' 1996 hit Fargo, maybe?) at the art-deco theatre (fargotheatre.org). Head west through state capital Bismarck, veering off to visit the On-A-Slant Mandan village and Theodore Roosevelt National Park from Medora. Travel south past Little Missouri National Grassland, before crossing into South Dakota and Spearfish, a good base for exploring Black Hills National Forest, Deadwood, Mount Rushmore and the Wind and Jewel Caves. Discover the eerie rock formations of Badlands National Park before looping east to Sioux Falls (stopping in Mitchell to see the Corn Palace, decorated with thousands of ears of corn). Then it's north to Laura Ingalls Wilder's homestead in De Smet, before returning to Fargo with chippers (chocolate-covered crisps) from Carol Widman's Candy Company (carolwidmanscandy.com).
