Michelin-starred chefs work in mysterious ways, their wonders to perform. Case in point, Martin Blunos, erstwhile progenitor of two 2-Michelin Star restaurants in the UK (out of just 11).
How on Earth did the worldly-wise epicurean end up all but overloading Eastin Grand Sathorn Bangkok's long, light, level-14 poolside space with his force of nature character, labyrinthine culinary experience, and uncanny capacity to make the commonplace extraordinary?
Call it a combination of commercial carrot and personal stick and thank our lucky ‘stars'.
His distinguishingly greying ginger locks swept back, and somehow looking nonchalant in union jack slacks, the trade mark walrus-moustachioed maestro from Bath has his name over the door, his aphorisms on the walls, and outrageous revenues in the till. A parallel project to open in Thonglor can only burnish his reputation for putting smiles on faces.
Which is exactly the philosophy on which he hangs his toque: "Happy Food for Happy People; come eat, drink and forget life's travails!"
Blunos's deceptively intricate "fine dining comfort food cooked with love" certainly pleasures the palate.
Best-selling Lobster Roll (over 4,000 since opening in December 2017), pits "sweet, succulent warm orange juice and lobster oil marinated Canadian lobster with orange mayo and garlic buttered toasted milk dough rolls (half lobster 630/whole 1,150).
The tsunami of shells translates into lashings of shellfish bisque (370) with prawns, Pernod and cream, also inspiring Canadian half lobster risotto (700) with mushroom, white wine, lobster oil and dried lobster eggs you sweep onto the arborio rice for extra zing.
Mediterranean-style seared sliced lamb rump salad (490) with fresh mint and spinach, red onion and chilli, goes hyper gourmet with a punch of red wine vinegar, salty drizzle of anchovy oil, and luscious sprinkle of crumbled feta cheese – no trouble for those averse to lamb's alleged odour! Ditto lamb shoulder (900) slow-cooked on the bone with oil-enhancing lemon, rosemary and garlic, served with juices-immersed crushed new potatoes.
The juices and aromas of poached salmon and smoked haddock chowder (380) with ham, leak, potato and tomato are sealed with shortcrust pastry you crack into the broth for a cockles of the heart-warming meal in one.
Pizzas hot from the visibly blazing oven include Thai pad kapao gai (380) topping but the biggest seller is self-explanatory yet revelatory Peking Duck pizza (590) over thin, biscuit-crisp dough.
"Triple BBB" beef burger (550) offers pulled beef cheek moistened with bone marrow and BBQ sauce, slow cooked and sandwiched in toasted custard powder, "vanillariness"-infused buns with horseradish "English wasabi" cream. With definitive fries and green salad sides, cherry tomato and gherkin join the wooden spear holding the teeteringly toothsome ensemble together.
Breadcrumb-coated seabass ‘n wedges (490) comes with chunky tartare, "so the flavours and textures of the onion, gherkin, caper, and Marie Rose harmonize in the mouth". Not overly creamy Carbonara (360) features with pancetta, grana padano and egg yolk you mix in yourself. An adjustably spicy Thai-style Seafood Kee Mao spaghetti (420) includes tiger prawns, mussels and clams. Then there's Swiss Spätzle (460) sautéed with bacon and mushroom fricassee.
Desserts are equally divine. Apple turnover (320) blends chunky Granny Smiths with butter and cinnamon, slow cooked over glazed puff pastry and served with Bird's custard which, as every Brit knows, is the ultimate. Sticky toffee pudding (300) includes bergamot-enhancing Earl Grey tea-infused dates and black treacle base to the salted butterscotch sauce, all dolloped with whipped vanilla cream.
Just for starters.
It does indeed imbue life with fresh perspectives.
Tel. 02 210 8100 e-mail fbadmin@eastingrandsathorn.com
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