There are few more dazzling sights than a field of French hydrangeas in full bloom. The pale blue flowers are widely grown throughout the hilly farmlands of Da Lat, the capital of Lam Dong province in southern Vietnam.
The pale blue hydrangea is a popular variety grown in Da Lat. Brought to the city by the French during the colonial period, the flowers have various meanings when given as gifts, including prosperity and gratitude. Karnjana Karnjanatawe
The flowers do not have any fragrance, but their size and beauty allows farms to attract thousands of visitors to their picturesque fields.
"Each flower head is bigger than my face," said our local guide Thai Mac Vi Tien, who prefers to be called Cat. She is fluent in Thai, having studied the language at university in Ho Chi Minh City, about 300km southwest of Da Lat.
Cat chose to study Thai, she says, because of the large number of Thai tourists visiting Vietnam every year. Da Lat is among the top tourist destinations. It has been a resort town since the days of French colonial rule in the late 19th century.
"The French founded Da Lat in 1893 as a cool climate retreat. The city is situated in the highlands, about 1,500m above sea level. The weather is pleasant all year round," she said.
Built between 1932 and 1938, Da Lat Railway Station is the oldest train station in Vietnam. It was recognised as a National Architecture Relic in 2001. Tourists can ride the old train along a short route to Trai Mat and Linh Phuoc Pagoda. If you decide not to take the train, you can take pictures of old trains or relax in an old car which has been converted into a coffee shop.
Da Lat means the "Stream of the Lat", in reference to a local tribe. The city is also known as "Little Paris" -- about 2,000 colonial style buildings were built throughout the city by the French. It is a popular vacation destination among Vietnamese travellers in search of cooler weather, much like Thais visiting the mountainous areas of the North and the Northeast during the cool season. As a result, during our trip last week, I saw many young Vietnamese people wearing winter outfits for photos, even though it was about 24C in the daytime.
Apart from tourism, the people of Da Lat earn their living by growing vegetables, fruits and flowers such as artichokes, avocados and hydrangeas.
"The night market used to be a vegetable and fruit market before it became a tourist attraction," our guide told us. In the past, there were not many places for tourists to go and nothing much for them to do. So they wandered around the night market on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Road. Later, vendors started selling other products including cheap winter clothes, souvenirs and food.
"When you are in Da Lat, you should try Da Lat pizza. You can find it in the night market or at any street food vendors in the city," said our guide.
The roller coaster ride to Datanla Waterfall takes about five minutes. You have the option of riding the car by yourself or with a friend. Make sure to fasten your seat belt. There are speed control sticks on the left and right sides of the car. If you push one or both of the sticks forward, the car will go faster. To stop the car, pull the sticks back. The route is about 2.4km down the hill and has left and right turns. Be prepared for an exciting ride. The return trip is automatically controlled by the system. Just sit tight until you reach the starting station.
Despite its name, this turns out to be quite different from the Italian original. Da Lat pizza, or banh trang nuong in Vietnamese, is made of a thin round piece of rice paper. It is grilled on a charcoal stove and topped with a beaten egg, chopped sausages, spring onions, deep fried shallots, shredded dried pork (moo yong), mayonnaise and chilli sauce. Once the rice paper sheet is crispy, it is folded like a crepe before being served. The taste is sweet and a little salty. Other toppings like cheese or dried shrimp can be added. After eating the snack, locals like to quench their thirst with hot soy milk.
Da Lat has no shortage of attractions for tourists. One of the most popular is Datanla Waterfall. Visitors can reach to the falls either by roller coaster or by foot. If you have more time, you can try other activities such as cliff climbing and rafting.
One of the town's most interesting historical sites is definitely Da Lat railway station. Built in the early 20th century by French architects, the terminal was constructed in the style of a southern French station, according to our guide. The original structure was damaged during the Vietnam War and renovated in 1991.
Built in 1931-1932 by the French, Da Lat Cathedral or St. Nicholas Cathedral is among the oldest buildings in the city. The church was built in the shape of a cross. It is 65m long and 14m wide. The bell tower is 47m high. The church is still in use.
Today, the station operates short train rides on old locomotives.
Further afield, about 8km east of Da Lat city centre on Highway 20, is Linh Phuoc Pagoda.
"About 80% of Vietnam's 95 million people consider themselves non-religious and Vietnam is officially an atheist country. But Mahayana Buddhism has a large number of followers," Cat informed us, adding that Linh Phuoc Pagoda is one of the most important temples in Da Lat. It is known among tourists as the Dragon Temple because of the many dragon sculptures and paintings inside the compound, including a 49m-long dragon next to the main prayer hall.
This hall houses a large sitting Buddha image. Behind it, there is a small room where visitors can pay respects to the sculpture of a highly respected late abbot, whose body has not decayed in 21 years.
"If you'd like to light incense sticks, please light only one, not three sticks as Thai people do," our guide told us. "In Vietnam, one incense stick is enough to worship the Buddha. It is just a symbol. We normally don't have to light any incense. We can pay respect in our hearts." Although Buddhism has the largest group of followers of any religion in Vietnam, it represents only 16% of the population. There are also significant Catholic, Protestant and Muslim minorities.
Construction of Domaine de Marie or the pink church began in 1930 and was completed in 1943. Its architecture is a blend of French and Vietnamese traditions. The Catholic church is open to all visitors. It is also home to orphans and underprivileged children.
"Most Vietnamese believe in worshipping our ancestors, even though we are agnostic," Cat said.
One final site that should not be missed is the famous pink church called Domaine de Marie. It is located on a hill which provides a panoramic view of the city and welcomes both Catholic and non-Catholic visitors.
Da Lat is a resort town full of charms, from its cool climate, beautiful flower fields and green cypress forests to its old colonial buildings. But don't expect much peace and quiet. People in Da Lat, like those throughout Vietnam, love to honk their horns while driving.
When you are crossing the road, don't expect anyone to stop for you. Instead, be prepared for them to blast their horns at you. Also look out while you are walking on a pavement because some motorcycle drivers use the footpath. Other than that, expect your vacation to be a rewarding one.
The night market is about 500m long and located on the pavement of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Road. One side of the footpath is dotted with stalls selling winter clothes, sweaters or knitted hats while the other side is the location for stalls selling food, snacks, fruits and vegetables. Here you can try Da Lat pizza. I ordered one topped with cheese and spring onions for 20,000 dong (about 30 baht).
Linh Phuoc Pagoda is decorated with countless colourful ceramic pieces. The main hall houses a 4.8m-tall Buddha Sakyamuni in the cross legged sitting position while the 37m-high Da Bao tower houses a 4.3mhigh bronze bell with zones representing heaven and hell. Another highlight is the 17m-tall Avalokiteshvara or Guanyin statue made of 650,000 immortelle flowers. Next to the statute is a large hall which houses another statute of the Goddess of Mercy.The green glass structure is Doha Café, a coffee shop built to resemble an artichoke. Next to it is the yellow glass dome, built in the style of a Mexican sunflower. It was intended to be a performing theatre, but it has never been used. Today only the shopping mall is open. Both buildings are located next to Xuan Huong Lake where locals like to go for picnics or fishing. The lake has a 7km circular route where you can jog or walk while admiring its scenic views.
TRAVEL INFO
- Thai Vietjet flies direct flights from Suvarnabhumi airport to Da Lat. Visit http://vietjetair.com.
- There are three hydrangea farms which are open to the public. The most popular site is Canh Dong Hoa Cam Tu Cau or the Hydrangea Garden, located about 20 minutes’ drive from the city centre. It is open daily from 6am to 6pm. Admission is 15,000 dong (about 20 baht).
- Datanla Waterfall is about 5km south of the city. It is open daily. Admission is 10,000 dong (about 14 baht) excluding fees for adventure activities.
- Krungthai Card offers packages to Da Lat and other cities in Vietnam through its affiliate KTC World Service. Visit http://ktcworld.co.th.
