Margate is not an undiscovered gem. Half of east London has moved there and staked its flag on the beach. Though I confess I was among those to roll my eyes whenever a subsequent person told me they were relocating. That is until a recent scorching summer day.
I took the train out for a 24-hour mini break to catch the last day of the Turner Contemporary’s excellent show – Resistance, by Steve McQueen – and had my head turned by the creativity which has been brought by a new wave of chefs and hoteliers.
That it’s easy to get to is perhaps the most boring part of visiting Margate, but it doesn’t harm that it’s only and hour and 18 minutes from Stratford (and £19 one way if you book far enough in advance). But stepping out of the train station, and almost instantly onto the beach is transportive.
The seafront has an eminently British feel (Dreamland looms large, as does the iconic Brutalist 1960’s tower block). But look down to the wide sandy beach, with the tidal swimming pool and Sea Scrub sauna round on the left, a beach ball court in the middle and the harbour hooking around on the right, and feel yourself exhale.
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The first thing one needs straight off the train, ahead of a hectic day exploring, is coffee. Which Margate has by the drip-load. Forts Cafe is a coffee shop with a queue down the street, and a fun vibe inside. Covered seating outside lets you enjoy a beach view.
After a quick paddle — or perhaps a few rounds on the slot machines, there’s no better spot on a sunny day for lunch than at Sargasso, the restaurant from East London’s Brawn, on the edge of the harbour, which serves light and imaginative dishes, showcasing the best seafood cooked up by its new Chef Patron, the brilliant William Gleave.
Gleave co-founded P Franco, Bright and Peg; think Cantabrian anchovies and boquerones on toast or squid sandwich or Vesuvio tomato salad – and an excellent selection of wines. Save room for an affogato at the end. Though be sure to reserve a table in advance — it’s a petite spot which is regularly booked out.
From there, a short stroll back around the harbour — past a giant Tracey Emin artwork on Droit House on the Harbour arm — and you hit the Turner Contemporary, an astonishing place that’s not talked about enough, which is currently showing an exhibition by the artist Anna Boghiguian, The Sunken Boat: A glimpse into past histories. It explores global maritime histories, along with the environmental and geopolitical crises of today (free, until Oct 26; turnercontemporary.org).
Grab an ice cream from the café, and sit out on deckchairs outside the gallery, admiring sea views for a moment of post-art contemplation.
Then it’s time to hit the shops through the winding lanes of Margate’s old town. There are brilliant little vintage homewares shops including Junk Deluxe and Fez on the High Street, and Paraphernalia and Whistle Dixie on King Street, where a pair of vintage dolly tubs caught my eye (too big to transport on the train), and an enviable stack of wicker baskets.
Breuer & Dawson is a treasure-trove of beautiful vintage mens and womenswear, including a fringed suede jacket that nearly came home with me.
Along with small boutiques selling a thoughtful selection of brands that you don’t see often on the high street (like Damson and Madder at Margaux Home), you could lose half a day (if you don’t have a four-year-old tugging your arm, like I did) in Les Animaux, a beautiful store of linen clothes, all designed and mostly made in the workshop at the back, which you can peek into.
While the Margate-founded skincare brand formerly known as Haeckles still works out its new name, it’s worth popping into its Margate store. It has an incredible apothecary-style interior, and you can view its products, see how it makes them from local seaweed, and even book in for a treatment in the rooms above.
All that wandering will leave with an appetite, which is good news because Margate is buzzing with great foodie options. For a quick bite, grab a pizza from Palms Pizzeria, which serves pizza by the slice, or the box (its House Pie with marinara, pepperoni and hot honey is something else).
Alternatively, get an early booking at Sete (it opens for dinner at 6pm), a wine bar and restaurant modelled on owner Natalia Ribbe’s favourite Parisian joints. It has exciting kitchen takeovers by guests chefs lined up for the summer as part of its BBQ series. Or for good old fashioned British fish and chips, it’s hard to beat Peter’s Fish Factory on the seafront.
Time to hit the bar. For tequila lovers, Mariachi, serves all kinds of delicious Mexican cocktails (from its selection of more than 100 Tequila and Mezcal bottles) along with a satisfying bar snack menu. While a short walk from the beach, Fort Road Hotel attracts a cool crowd (along with exciting pop ups: Kim Songsoo from Super 8 recently had one as did Sister Midnight).
The basement bar, lined with works by local Margate artists including Hannah Lees, Matthew Darbyshire and Tracey Emin) is an excellent place to get a picante. If you want to stay over, there are 14 chicly-designed rooms above.
For a room with a (sea) view, book into No 42 By Guesthouse, a renovated Victorian hotel with original intricate iron balconies, dainty cornicing and stained-glass windows, along with a luxurious spa and roof terrace restaurant (rooms from £170; mrandmrssmith.com).
