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The Independent UK

Kate Wickers

The Cabanas, Kenya, hotel review

Kenya

This family-run eco hotel is the perfect place to unwind, kick off your shoes – and not put them back on until you head home

Location

The Cabanas is situated on Lamu Island, off the coast of northern Kenya in the Indian Ocean, 150 miles northeast of Mombasa. It sits in a quiet spot on the southwest coast of Lamu (yet still only 4.5km from historic Lamu Town), set amid palms on a wide stretch of the pristine Kizingoni Beach. Stunning sunsets are guaranteed.

The island’s Swahili-influence and car-free streets make it a unique destination. It’s a magnet for celebrities, with everyone from Sienna Miller to Barack Obama having visited.

The vibe

Seek out the infinity pool in the spa building (The Cabanas)

Wonderfully informal (you’re welcome to turn up to dinner wrapped in a sarong), The Cabanas is hugged by native forest which provides complete privacy and a sense of calm that is only interrupted by birdsong and the occasional bray of a passing donkey. A stay here feels like being castaway, albeit with cocktails on tap.

Service

Warm and attentive, but just occasionally you may have to hunt for a member of staff. You’ll get to know everyone who works here well throughout your stay as they’ll ask how your day is going, regularly check if you need anything, and generally add to a feeling of being thoroughly well looked after.

Your own dedicated housekeeper will pop in twice a day. First to do a general tidy and then a turn down service in the evening, which includes unfurling that tricky mosquito net that wraps around your four-poster.

Bed and bath

Rooms have a calming, neutral colour scheme (The Cabanas)

Elevated on a natural sand dune, the hotel’s seven cabanas blend unobtrusively with the environment. Most of them are made using local materials such as wood from casuarina trees and palm thatch. Nearly all of them have sea views, and all come with double bedrooms (think calming, neutral colour schemes and furnishings inspired by nature, such as rattan pendant lights and palm printed cushions).

Terraces with comfy sofas – that look like they’ve been fashioned from driftwood – come as standard; as do the harmless geckos traversing them.

Perfect for families and larger groups, Pepo House (a large villa that can sleep up to 12 people) has a private pool and panoramic roof terrace.

In every room, you’ll find toiletries from Kenyan, eco-conscious brand Blue Rhino. There’s no hairdryer or body lotion, so you may wish to pack your own.

Food and drink

Guests can choose where they want to dine (The Cabanas)

With an emphasis on seasonal, local produce, breakfast, lunch and a three-course set dinner (dietary requirements are noted but there are no a la carte options) are served wherever you fancy in the grounds of the hotel – be it on top deck (the large terrace with lofty sea views and infinity pool); in the hotel’s no-frills, thatched dining pavilion; or on the beach with the sand between your toes.

Expect hearty helpings and cuisine that’s in keeping with the location: crab cakes served with homemade tartare sauce, seafood platters, and fish curry with chapati.

Beachside, the squishy sofas are the best spot for a sundowner, and there’s also a beach bar, with swings instead of chairs that’s popular with teenagers and the young at heart.

Facilities

There’s plenty of water sports to choose from (The Cabanas)

Tuition in wakeboarding, kitesurfing, water-skiing, and stand up paddle boarding is available. For a true local experience, you can catch the breeze on the Cabana’s very own dhow – a lovingly restored traditional wooden boat. There are also ad-hoc yoga classes in a Shala, a Zen Den (small spa, with treatments upon request), and infinity pool.

Snorkels and masks are free to borrow. New for 2026 is the large beachside pool with swim-up bar and private dining pods. Cultural and heritage tours to Lamu Town can also be arranged.

Kate’s stay was hosted by The Cabanas.