At a recent England-versus-France tasting on a Parisian rooftop, Brit Pop wine’s Josh Dell and I brought a taste of England to France. The result suggested a simple summer rule: drink patriotically — and give serious rosé time.
Must drink: Domaine Hugo Rosé 2022, England
Poured against Billecart-Salmon Rosé, Domaine Hugo won. Fine bubbles, red berries, citrus and chalky drive gave this Wiltshire sparkling rosé precision and breadth. (£57.95, brunswickfinewines.com).
Equal billing: Ham Street Field Blend Rosé 2023, England
This Kent field blend drew with Clos Cibonne Cuvée Marius Rosé 2021. Floral, textured and bright, with berry fruit and a creamy finish, it offered persuasive value beside a serious Provençal benchmark.
(£29, paintedwines.co.uk).
Still formidable: France
Clos Cibonne brought herbs, spice and ageing power; Billecart-Salmon remained elegant and poised. None of the wines came from last year’s vintage — a useful reminder that serious rosé often improves with time.
Avoid rosé bought by colour
The pursuit of ever-paler pink has produced too many wines resembling expensive water. Choose by producer, grape, vintage and appetite — not by the shade which best matches a rented sunbed.
Drink local
In London, seek Blackbook Winery beneath the railway arches in Battersea. American-born Sergio Verrillo’s “I’d Rather Be a Rebel” Rosé 2022 is dry and textured, with strawberry, red cherry and raspberry. It proved particularly successful with the Sichuan cooking at Noodle & Beer, whose wine list I wrote. (£27.85, strictlywine.co.uk).
